Welcome to Part 2 of our Home Electrical Wiring guide, brought to you by MGS Contracting Services, your trusted remodeling and electrical experts serving the heart of West Virginia. In Part 1, we covered the essentials: wire sizing, sheathing, safety principles, color coding, and how to read wire labels. Now, we’re diving deeper.
This half of the guide focuses on hands-on knowledge, from learning how to strip a wire without damaging it, to understanding electrical boxes, circuit breaker panels, and disconnect switches. If you’re planning any kind of home project, whether it’s swapping out a light in your Harpers Ferry entryway or adding an outlet in a Hedgesville workshop, this is the know-how that makes the difference between “it works” and “it’s safe.”
CREDIT: PINTEREST
VIII. Stripping Electrical Wire: A Skill Worth Learning
Most homeowners will eventually face a basic electrical task: replacing a light fixture, upgrading a wall outlet, or installing a new switch. All of these projects involve one small but critical step, stripping the insulation from the wire.
It may sound simple, but poor wire stripping is one of the most common mistakes we see on DIY jobs across West Virginia, from old homes in Charles Town to new construction in Martinsburg. A bad strip can cause loose connections, overheating, or even arcing, all of which are fire risks or cause premature failure of the circuit.
Let’s break down why this skill matters, and how to do it safely and correctly.
Why Stripping Wire Matters in Home Electrical Wiring Home Electrical Wiring
At the core of every electrical connection is the metal conductor, usually copper. This conductor must be exposed just enough to connect securely to a terminal screw, wire nut, or push-in fitting. If you strip too much insulation, you risk leaving bare copper exposed, which can touch other wires or metal boxes. If you strip too little, you’ll get a weak or unstable connection that may: Home Electrical Wiring
- Cause flickering lights Home Electrical Wiring
Home Electrical Wiring - Trip breakers Home Electrical Wiring
Home Electrical Wiring - Burn out fixtures Home Electrical Wiring
Home Electrical Wiring - Lead to dangerous overheating Home Electrical Wiring
Home Electrical Wiring
In a place like West Virginia, where homes often blend new renovations with older wiring, proper connections are especially important. Even if your fixture is new, the wiring behind it might not be, and that’s where precision counts.
The Tools You Need to Strip Wire Safely Home Electrical Wiring
You don’t need an expensive toolkit to do this right, but you do need the right tool for the job:
- Wire Strippers: These are designed specifically to remove insulation without damaging the copper underneath. They include several holes labeled for different wire gauges (14, 12, 10, etc.).
- Needle-nose pliers: For bending and shaping stripped wire
- Utility knife (optional): Can be used in a pinch, but requires great care. We don’t recommend this for beginners.
Important Tip: Don’t use scissors, pocket knives, or try to yank insulation off by hand. That’s a fast track to damaging the copper or hurting yourself.
Step-by-Step: How to Strip Electrical Wire the Right Way Home Electrical Wiring
1. Identify the Wire Gauge Home Electrical Wiring
Before you strip anything, look at the wire jacket or labeling. Common residential wiring sizes include:
- 14-gauge: For 15-amp lighting circuits
- 12-gauge: For 20-amp outlets or kitchens
- 10-gauge: For large appliances or 30-amp circuits
Make sure your wire stripper has a notch for the correct gauge. If you’re unsure, err on the side of caution and consult an electrician or test on a scrap wire.
2. Position the Stripper Home Electrical Wiring
Open your wire stripper to the correct gauge opening. Place the end of the wire into the stripper, with about 3/4 inch of insulation inside the jaws. This is typically enough to wrap around a screw terminal or join to another wire with a connector.
3. Clamp and Strip Home Electrical Wiring
Gently squeeze the handles to close the jaws around the insulation, not the copper wire inside. Twist slightly to break the insulation’s grip, then pull smoothly away from the wire to slide the insulation off.
You should now have a clean, shiny length of bare copper exposed.
4. Inspect the Copper Home Electrical Wiring
Look closely. If the copper is:
- Smooth and untarnished: You’re good to go.
- Nicked, bent, or gouged: Cut the wire end off and try again. Damaged wire can weaken the connection and is more prone to heat buildup or breakage.
What Can Go Wrong (And How to Prevent It) Home Electrical Wiring
Here are some real issues we’ve seen from improperly stripped wires in homes across the Eastern Panhandle:
• Nick in the Copper Conductor Home Electrical Wiring
Even a shallow cut weakens the wire and increases the chance of it snapping inside the wall or outlet box, especially in homes with vibration from HVAC systems or heavy appliance use.
• Too Much Exposed Wire Home Electrical Wiring
If more than 3/4 inch is exposed, it could contact the metal outlet box, ground wires, or adjacent conductors, causing sparks or a short circuit.
• Insulation Left Too Close Home Electrical Wiring
If only a sliver of copper is exposed, the wire nut or terminal screw won’t grip it securely, causing loose connections and potential arcing.
Extra Tips for West Virginia Homeowners Home Electrical Wiring
In many older homes throughout Harpers Ferry, Shepherdstown, and Martinsburg, we often find brittle insulation, especially on wires from the 1960s–1980s. When stripping wire in these homes:
- Be gentle, older wires can break easily
- If insulation flakes or cracks, replace the entire wire if possible
- In historic homes with cloth-wrapped wire, call an electrician, these materials require special handling and often indicate non-grounded systems that need updating
A Simple Step That Affects Every Connection Home Electrical Wiring
Learning how to properly strip electrical wire is a small skill with big consequences. It’s the foundation of every successful connection in your home electrical wiring, whether you’re installing a new light over your breakfast nook or rewiring a whole basement.
Get this step right, and you’re well on your way to safer, smarter DIY projects. Get it wrong, and you risk frustration, fire hazards, or costly repairs.
IX. Box Fill Capacity: Avoiding Overcrowded Electrical Boxes
Why Size Matters in Home Electrical Wiring Home Electrical Wiring
When it comes to home electrical wiring, most people focus on wire gauge or breaker size, but one critical detail often overlooked is the size of your electrical boxes and how many wires and devices you cram inside them.
If you’ve ever opened up a wall plate in your home in Charles Town and found a tangle of wires crammed into a tiny metal box, you’ve seen the problem firsthand: overcrowding.
It’s not just untidy, it’s unsafe.
What Is Box Fill? Home Electrical Wiring
Box fill capacity refers to the maximum number of wires, devices (like switches or outlets), and clamps that can safely fit inside an electrical junction box. Every box has a volume rating, measured in cubic inches, and exceeding this capacity creates several serious hazards:
- Heat buildup (leading to melted insulation)
- Increased fire risk
- Failed electrical connections
- Code violations (which can fail an inspection)
- Damage to the wire when the cover is forced back on
In places like Martinsburg, Inwood, or Ranson, many homes have seen generations of electrical work, and unfortunately, not all of it was done professionally. It’s common to find small boxes that were never upgraded during renovations, even when more modern devices were added.
How to Calculate Box Fill the Right Way Home Electrical Wiring
Whether you’re adding an outlet in your garage or installing a dimmer switch in the living room, it’s important to know if your existing box can handle the number of wires you’re trying to install.
Step 1: Find the Volume of Your Box Home Electrical Wiring
Look for the box volume stamped inside the box or printed on its packaging if you’re buying new. Common sizes:
- Single-gang plastic box: 18–22 cubic inches
- Old work box: 14–18 cubic inches
- 2-gang box: 30–35 cubic inches
If you can’t find it, measure the box and multiply:
Width × Height × Depth (in inches) ÷ 1728 = cubic inches
Step 2: Count the “Fill Units” Inside the Box Home Electrical Wiring
Use the following rules to calculate how many cubic inches each element takes up.
| Component | Fill Unit |
| Each insulated wire | 1 unit |
| All ground wires combined | 1 unit total |
| Each device (switch, outlet) | 2 units |
| Internal clamps (built-in) | 1 unit |
Step 3: Multiply by Wire Gauge
| Wire Gauge (AWG) | Cubic Inches Per Unit |
| 14 | 2.00 |
| 12 | 2.25 |
| 10 | 2.50 |
Example: Can This Box Handle It? Home Electrical Wiring
Let’s say you’re upgrading a kitchen outlet in your Martinsburg ranch-style home, and you’re working with an 18-cubic-inch plastic box using 14-gauge wire.
Inside, you plan to have:
- 5 individual insulated wires
- 1 ground bundle
- 1 duplex outlet
Calculation:
- 5 wires = 5 units
- 1 ground bundle = 1 unit
- 1 outlet = 2 units
- Total = 8 units
Now multiply:
8 units × 2.00 cu. in. (for 14 AWG) = 16 cubic inches
Your 18-cubic-inch box has room, but just barely. Add one more wire, and you’ll exceed capacity, risking failed connections and heat buildup behind the wall.
Why Overfilling a Box is a Real Hazard Home Electrical WiringHome Electrical Wiring
1. Heat Has Nowhere to Escape Home Electrical Wiring
Electricity flowing through wires generates heat. In a tight box, that heat can’t dissipate, especially when devices like dimmer switches or smart outlets are installed.
2. Pressure Can Break Connections Home Electrical Wiring
If you force all the wires and the device back into an overfilled box, you’re putting pressure on the terminals and wire nuts. Over time, this can loosen connections, causing flickering lights, arcing, or even short circuits.
3. You Could Fail an Electrical Inspection
If you’re remodeling or selling your home, inspectors in Jefferson or Berkeley County will be checking for proper box fill as part of code compliance. Overcrowded boxes are a common red flag, and may require you to open walls or upgrade boxes to pass inspection.
Best Practices for Managing Box Fill
1. Always Size Up When in Doubt
If you’re close to capacity, install the next box size up. It’s better to have extra space than to risk an overheated or crammed junction.
2. Use Wire Nuts with Built-In Grounds
They combine multiple grounds into one connector, simplifying your layout and saving space.
3. Don’t Forget the Clamps
Built-in clamps inside the box count as 1 fill unit. External clamps don’t count toward fill, but they can add bulk.
4. Use Compact Devices
Modern “slim” switches and outlets can help reduce device depth inside tight boxes, which is especially useful in older West Virginia homes where stud bays and plaster walls limit space.
Local Insight from MGS Contracting Services
We’ve worked on homes across the Eastern Panhandle, from 100-year-old farmhouses to brand-new builds. One thing we see far too often is small junction boxes overloaded with modern wiring, especially after DIY renovations. It’s not just a technical issue, it’s a safety liability.
When our electricians upgrade a space, we always assess box fill and upgrade boxes as needed, giving you peace of mind and long-term performance.
It’s Not Just a Box. It’s a Safety Shield.
An electrical box isn’t just a place to hold your wires, it’s a heat buffer, fire barrier, and structural foundation for every switch and outlet in your home. Getting box fill right is essential to the safety, longevity, and legal compliance of your home electrical wiring.
If you’re not sure whether your current boxes are up to the job, or you’re planning a remodel and want to ensure it’s done right, contact MGS Contracting Services. We’re local, licensed, and committed to helping West Virginia homeowners stay safe, up to code, and in control of their home’s electrical future.
X. Your Circuit Breaker Panel, Explained
The Power Hub of Your Home Electrical Wiring System
Whether you live in a historic home in Shepherdstown or a modern ranch in Falling Waters, your circuit breaker panel is the central control center for your home’s electrical system. It’s where electricity from the utility company enters your home, and it’s the last stop before that power is distributed to lights, outlets, appliances, and every other device in your space.
When it comes to home electrical wiring, understanding how this panel works, and what warning signs to watch for, can help you prevent electrical fires, reduce system overloads, and communicate more clearly with your electrician when repairs or upgrades are needed.
What’s Inside the Electrical Panel?
Your breaker panel (also called a service panel or load center) usually lives in your basement, garage, or utility room, and may look like a gray metal box with a swing-open door. Inside, you’ll find the critical components that control and protect your home’s electricity:
1. Circuit Breakers: Your Electrical Safety Valves
These are the switches lined up in rows. Each breaker corresponds to a specific circuit in your home, like your kitchen outlets, bedroom lighting, or HVAC unit.
- Purpose: Breakers protect each circuit from overloading. If you try to run too much current through a wire, the breaker “trips,” cutting the power before the wires overheat or catch fire.
- Typical Ratings: Most home breakers are rated for 15 amps (lighting) or 20 amps (kitchen and outlet circuits). Appliances like electric dryers or water heaters often have 30–60 amp breakers.
West Virginia Tip: Many older homes across Berkeley and Morgan counties still have panels with fewer, overloaded circuits, especially in kitchens that weren’t designed for today’s power-hungry appliances. If your microwave trips a breaker every time your coffee maker is on, your panel may be outdated.
2. Bus Bars: The Power Distributors
Behind the breakers is a set of metal strips called bus bars, which carry the incoming electrical power from the main service line to each breaker.
- Hot Bus Bars: Supply 120V or 240V to the breakers.
- Neutral Bus Bar: Returns electricity back to the utility after it flows through the circuit.
Important: You should never touch these bars, even if the main breaker is off, they may still be live.
3. Grounding and Neutral Bars: Safety Backups
Every electrical panel includes:
- A neutral bar (white wires)
- A ground bar (bare copper or green wires)
In modern panels, these may be separate; in older panels, they may be bonded together. These bars:
- Complete the electrical circuit
- Provide a safe return path for current
- Carry stray electricity away from the panel and into the earth
Grounding is one of the most important safety features in your home electrical wiring system. Improper grounding, common in many DIY installations, can cause dangerous shocks or damage sensitive electronics.
What Can Homeowners Safely Do Inside the Panel?
You don’t need to be an electrician to interact with your panel, but you do need to know your limits. Here’s what’s safe and not safe for homeowners to handle:
Safe for Homeowners:
- Resetting Tripped Breakers: If a breaker trips (moves to the middle or “off” position), you can firmly switch it off, then back on.
- Labeling Breakers: Use a permanent marker or printed labels to note which breaker controls what. This makes future troubleshooting or repairs easier and faster.
Pro Tip for WV Residents: We recommend labeling circuits clearly, “Kitchen Outlets,” “Washer,” “Guest Room”, especially in multi-story or older homes, where wiring paths may not be obvious. It’s a huge help during storms, outages, or emergencies.
Not Safe for Homeowners:
- Installing new breakers
- Wiring inside the panel
- Touching bus bars or exposed terminals
These tasks require specialized training, code knowledge, and the ability to de-energize the system properly. Mistakes here can result in electrocution, fire, or total power failure.
In West Virginia, homeowners are allowed to do certain electrical work themselves, but work on the service panel is usually restricted to licensed electricians, especially in Jefferson and Berkeley Counties, where code enforcement is strict.
Signs of Trouble in Your Circuit Breaker Panel
Even if everything looks fine from the outside, your panel may be giving you subtle signs that something’s wrong behind the door. Don’t ignore these red flags:
Frequently Tripping Breakers
If a breaker trips more than once every few weeks, it’s not “just old.” It could signal:
- Overloaded circuits
- Damaged wiring
- A faulty device plugged into the circuit
- A worn-out breaker that needs replacing
Buzzing, Humming, or Clicking Sounds
Your panel should be silent. Any kind of noise, especially buzzing or arcing sounds, may indicate loose connections, corrosion, or internal arcing, all of which are major fire risks.
Warm, Hot, or Discolored Breakers
Feel the front of your breakers. If any are warm to the touch, or if you see burn marks, melted plastic, or a burning smell, shut off the main breaker and call an electrician immediately. This is a classic sign of a failing or overloaded circuit.
Your Panel Is More Than 30 Years Old
Older panels may not meet today’s electrical demands or safety codes. Some panels from the 1970s–80s (like Federal Pacific or Zinsco brands) are known to fail to trip during overloads and are no longer approved.
XI. The Purpose of an Electrical Disconnect Switch
Why Every Home Electrical Wiring System Should Have One
If your home’s electrical panel is the heart of your electrical system, think of the electrical disconnect switch as the emergency stop button. It’s not used every day, but in a moment of crisis, it becomes one of the most important safety devices on your property.
Whether you live in a century-old farmhouse in Shepherdstown or a newer build near Martinsburg, knowing what an electrical disconnect switch is, and whether you have one, could make the difference between a fast, safe emergency response and potential disaster.
Let’s break down what it is, why it matters, and how it fits into the overall home electrical wiring system.
What Is an Electrical Disconnect Switch?
An electrical disconnect switch (sometimes called a service disconnect or main disconnect) is a large, manually operated switch that shuts off all electrical power entering your home. In most residential settings, it’s:
- Mounted on the exterior of your home
- Located near the electric meter
- Typically enclosed in a metal weatherproof box
- Clearly marked with “Main Disconnect” or similar labeling
Inside, the switch connects directly to the service wires from your utility provider. Flipping the switch to the “off” position cuts power before it enters your circuit breaker panel inside.
Why It Matters for Your Home’s Electrical Safety
Electrical disconnect switches provide a critical safety function, both for homeowners and first responders. Here’s why they’re so important:
1. Emergency Shutoff in a Fire or Flood
If there’s an electrical fire, a short circuit, or a flooded basement, you may need to cut power quickly. If the panel is inside and difficult or dangerous to access, an exterior disconnect lets you turn everything off without re-entering the home.
This is especially crucial in rural areas of West Virginia, where response times may be longer and homeowners may need to take immediate action before help arrives.
2. Protection for First Responders and Utility Crews
Firefighters, electricians, and line workers often rely on these switches to safely de-energize a structure before entering. Without one, they must either:
- Enter a potentially hazardous area to access the main panel, or
- Coordinate with the utility company to shut down service at the pole, which takes time.
An easily accessible disconnect switch allows emergency personnel to act fast without risk of electrical shock.
3. Essential for Generator and Solar Installations
If you’re considering a whole-home generator, solar panels, or battery backup systems, a disconnect switch is a must. It allows you to isolate your home’s wiring from the grid, which is required for:
- Utility compliance
- Safe maintenance
- Preventing backfeeding (sending power back into utility lines during outages, which is dangerous for workers)
Do You Have a Disconnect Switch? (Many Older Homes Don’t)
While modern homes are usually required to have a main disconnect installed outside as part of national and state code, many older homes across West Virginia, especially those built before the 1980s, do not have one.
Instead, their only means of shutting off power is at the main breaker inside the panel, which might be:
- In the basement
- Behind a water heater or washer
- Hidden in a closet or pantry
- Unsafe to access during an emergency
If your home falls into this category, we highly recommend adding a disconnect switch for both safety and code compliance. It’s a relatively straightforward installation that significantly improves your home’s readiness in a crisis.
What Does a Disconnect Switch Installation Involve?
At MGS Contracting Services, we evaluate your existing electrical service setup and install a code-compliant, weather-sealed disconnect. Here’s what’s typically involved:
- Locating your existing electric meter and service entrance
- Installing a UL-rated exterior disconnect box rated for your home’s amperage (usually 100, 150, or 200 amps)
- Routing power through the switch before it reaches the interior panel
- Testing and labeling the system clearly
We ensure your disconnect is permitted, inspected, and compliant with West Virginia’s local electrical codes, including requirements from your specific utility provider.
A Simple Device That Could Save Your Home
In the world of home electrical wiring, the disconnect switch doesn’t get a lot of attention, until it’s needed. Then it becomes your first line of defense.
It’s one of those upgrades you hope to never use, but will be grateful for in an emergency.
Whether you’re living in an older home in Berkeley Springs, building a new cabin near Cacapon, or just trying to future-proof your property, now is the right time to assess your electrical safety.
Let MGS Contracting Services help you determine whether a disconnect switch is right for your home, and if not, we’ll walk you through the safest, smartest way to install one.
XII. Frequently Asked Questions About Home Electrical Wiring
As a homeowner, especially in West Virginia where homes can range from early 1900s farmhouses to modern new-builds, it’s natural to have questions about your home’s electrical wiring system. Here’s a deeper look at the most common electrical FAQs we receive at MGS Contracting Services:
Q: What are the three main types of electrical wires in a home?
A: The three primary types of electrical wires found in residential wiring are:
- Hot wires (typically black or red): These carry live current from the electrical panel to outlets, switches, and fixtures. They are the most dangerous to touch and are always assumed to be live unless tested otherwise.
- Neutral wires (typically white): These complete the electrical circuit by carrying current back to the panel and ultimately to the ground. Even though they’re called “neutral,” they can still carry voltage and should be handled with care.
- Ground wires (green or bare copper): These are a safety mechanism that provides a low-resistance path to earth, preventing electrical shock and helping circuit breakers trip in fault conditions.
Together, these three wires form the core of a safe, properly functioning circuit in every room of your home, from the kitchen to the attic.
Q: Can I do my own electrical wiring in West Virginia?
A: The short answer is: yes, but with important restrictions.
In West Virginia, homeowners are generally permitted to perform certain types of electrical work on their own primary residence, but only if:
- They own and occupy the home
- The work is permitted by the local building department
- The work passes inspection by a certified inspector
For example, if you’re adding a new outlet in your garage in Martinsburg or installing lighting in a basement in Charles Town, you may be allowed to perform that work yourself, but only after securing a permit and ensuring it complies with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and local amendments.
That said, home electrical wiring is not a casual DIY task. Mistakes can lead to:
- Electrical fires
- Power outages
- Shock hazards
- Voided homeowner’s insurance
- Failed inspections during a sale or refinance
MGS Contracting Services always recommends having licensed professionals handle any electrical job involving panels, breaker changes, wiring new circuits, or working in high-risk areas like kitchens, bathrooms, or outdoor zones.
Q: What happens if I use the wrong wire size in a circuit?
A: Using an undersized wire for a circuit is one of the most dangerous wiring mistakes a homeowner can make. Here’s why:
- Undersized wires can overheat when too much current flows through them. This may not trip your breaker right away, but it can slowly melt insulation, weaken connections, and ignite fires behind your walls.
- It can lead to damaged appliances, especially those that require a steady, high load (like dryers, HVAC units, or refrigerators).
- Incorrect sizing can also cause voltage drops, which lead to flickering lights, inconsistent device performance, and wasted energy.
Wire gauge must match the circuit’s amperage rating. For instance:
- 14-gauge wire = 15-amp circuits
- 12-gauge wire = 20-amp circuits
- 10-gauge wire = 30-amp circuits
Never guess. When in doubt, check your breaker’s amperage and local code, or contact MGS Contracting Services. We’ll help you size it right and keep your home safe.
XIII. When to Call MGS Contracting Services
There’s a time and place for DIY. But when it comes to home electrical wiring, even small mistakes can have big consequences. MGS Contracting Services is proud to serve the families of Martinsburg, Charles Town, Inwood, Shepherdstown, and beyond with professional, reliable, and code-compliant electrical services.
We’re here to take the guesswork out of your electrical system, so you can rest easy knowing the job was done safely and correctly.
Here are some common situations where calling MGS makes all the difference:
1. Kitchen and Bathroom Rewiring
These rooms use a lot of electricity, appliances, lighting, fans, heated floors, and more. They also require GFCI protection, 20-amp circuits, and proper moisture-rated wiring. We ensure all your remodels are safe, efficient, and up to code.
2. Electrical Panel Upgrades
Still using a 100-amp panel or an outdated breaker box? If your breakers trip often, lights flicker, or your system just can’t keep up, it’s time to upgrade to a modern 200-amp panel. We handle full panel replacements and service upgrades that prepare your home for the future.
3. Basement Finishing and Remodeling
Planning to turn your basement into a livable space? You’ll need proper circuits for lighting, outlets, HVAC, sump pumps, and entertainment systems. We design and install wiring systems for finished basements that are safe, functional, and well-lit.
4. Indoor and Outdoor Lighting Installations
From under-cabinet lighting in the kitchen to recessed fixtures in the living room or landscape lights in your backyard, we install energy-efficient, aesthetically pleasing, and code-compliant lighting systems.
5. Outdoor Wiring and Detached Structures
Whether it’s a new shed, garage, pool pump, or hot tub, exterior wiring requires specialized cables, weather-rated enclosures, and ground fault protection. We make sure it’s done right and ready for West Virginia weather.
We’re fully licensed, insured, and rooted in the local community. Our team is known for clear communication, meticulous work, and a safety-first approach, exactly what you want when dealing with electricity in your home.
XIV. Conclusion: Knowledge is Power, Literally
Home electrical wiring doesn’t need to be a mystery. With the right knowledge, you can become a more informed homeowner, able to recognize signs of trouble, ask the right questions, and make smart decisions when planning upgrades or repairs.
But knowledge alone isn’t enough.
When safety, compliance, and long-term reliability are on the line, it’s best to partner with licensed professionals who know the codes, understand the risks, and deliver work that lasts.
At MGS Contracting Services, we believe every homeowner deserves peace of mind when it comes to their electrical system. Whether you’re remodeling a room, building an addition, or simply trying to understand why your breaker keeps tripping, we’re here to help.
We proudly serve communities across West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle, combining expert craftsmanship with down-to-earth service.
Ready to take control of your home’s electrical health?
Contact MGS Contracting Services today for a consultation or electrical safety inspection. Let’s make your home safer, one wire at a time.