A Homeowner’s Basic Guide to Electrical Wiring

I. Introduction

Whether you’re upgrading your summer cooling system or just hanging new lights, every homeowner benefits from a clear Guide to Electrical Wiring. Knowing the basics helps you recognize potential hazards, spot problems early, and ask the right questions of contractors. It also helps prevent electrical fires – a critical concern during the hot summer months when air conditioners, pool equipment, and outdoor lighting can tax your system. During summer, heavy loads like air conditioners, pool pumps, and outdoor lights put extra strain on home wiring. This Guide to Electrical Wiring underscores that proper gauge and protection are even more important when circuits run at full capacity.

• Safety First: While this guide to electrical wiring offers useful knowledge for homeowners, remember that any actual installation or repair should be done by a licensed electrician. Treat this as educational information only.
  
• Why Trust MGS?: MGS Contracting Services is your source for code-compliant, safe, and efficient electrical installations in your area. Our certified electricians bring years of experience ensuring every job meets strict safety standards.
  

In this Homeowner’s Basic Guide to Electrical Wiring, we’ll walk through everything from choosing the right wire gauge to decoding color codes. By the end, you’ll understand the fundamentals of household wiring and how to keep your home safe. Each step follows the principles of our comprehensive Guide to Electrical Wiring, designed specifically for homeowners.

II. Understanding Electrical Wire Sizing

The wire gauge (thickness) determines how much current a cable can safely carry. In our Guide to Electrical Wiring, we emphasize that using the correct wire gauge is crucial. If the wire is too thin for the amperage, it can overheat and cause a fire. If it’s overly thick for a low-amperage circuit, it’s not a safety hazard but can be unnecessarily expensive.

• Wire Gauge (AWG): In North America, wire thickness is measured by American Wire Gauge (AWG). The smaller the number, the thicker the wire. For example, 14-gauge (14 AWG) wire is thinner than 12-gauge (12 AWG).
  
• Amp Ratings: Common home wiring gauges and their typical circuit ratings:
  
  • 14 AWG is typically used on 15-amp circuits (lights, small outlets).
    
  • 12 AWG is for 20-amp circuits (kitchen outlets, larger appliances).
    
  • 10 AWG is used on 30-amp circuits (electric ranges, big air conditioners).
    
  • 8 AWG is often for 40-50 amp circuits (large air handlers, electric furnaces).
    
• Safety Impact: If you put, say, 14-gauge wire on a 20-amp breaker, the wire would be forced to carry more current than it’s rated for. That overheats the wire, melts insulation, and becomes a fire hazard. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring explains that each circuit breaker should match the wire’s capacity exactly.
  
• Real-World Example: If you have a 15-amp outlet for a desk lamp or TV, you must use 14-gauge wire. Putting 12-gauge (yellow jacket) on a 15-amp breaker won’t hurt safety, but 14-gauge on a 20-amp breaker is a recipe for trouble.
  
• Mismatched Wiring: A frequent DIY mistake is using leftover wire from a different circuit. Always verify wire size before hooking it up. The Guide to Electrical Wiring strongly warns: mismatched wires and breakers are a leading cause of home electrical fires.
  
• Homeowner’s Note: As any Guide to Electrical Wiring for homes emphasizes, always match wire gauge to breaker size. Every useful guide will stress that safety starts with the right wire.
  

Choosing the correct wire for each circuit keeps everything working safely and up to code. Treat the wire gauge chart as an absolute rulebook in your own Guide to Electrical Wiring.

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III. Types of Electrical Cable Sheathing

The outer jacket of electrical cable – the “sheathing” – tells you about the cable’s purpose and rating. Our comprehensive Guide to Electrical Wiring covers common types of cable sheathing you’ll see at home.

• NM Cable (Romex): This is the most common indoor wiring. “NM” stands for non-metallic, and “Romex” is a popular brand name often used generically. NM-B cable typically has two or three insulated conductors plus a bare ground, all wrapped in a plastic sheath. NM cable is rated for dry indoor use only (basements, walls, attics).
  
• Sheathing Colors & Gauges: Most NM cables use color-coded jackets to indicate gauge:
  
  • White jacket – usually 14 AWG, 15-amp circuits (14/2 or 14/3 NM-B). Common for lighting and many outlets.
    
  • Yellow jacket – typically 12 AWG, 20-amp circuits (12/2 or 12/3 NM-B). Used for heavier loads like kitchen outlets, bathroom circuits, or laundry.
    
  • Orange jacket – normally 10 AWG, 30-amp circuits (10/2 or 10/3 NM-B). Found on large appliances (ovens, water heaters) or high-power devices.
    
  • Gray or Black jacket – often seen on larger gauges (8 AWG or bigger). These can be used for 40-50 amp circuits (air conditioners, electric furnaces). Not as common in a typical house, but important to recognize.
    
• Where Used in Home: Use this Guide to Electrical Wiring to match cable to location:
  
  • White (14/2 or 14/3 NM-B): Light fixtures, small appliance circuits, bedroom outlets.
    
  • Yellow (12/2 or 12/3 NM-B): Kitchen countertop outlets, bathroom outlets, dishwasher, microwave, or any dedicated 20A circuit.
    
  • Orange (10/2 NM-B): Electric range, clothes dryer (often 30A or 40A), central air conditioning.
    
  • Gray/Black (8 AWG+): Main panel feeders, subpanels, or large HVAC systems.
    

By following this Guide to Electrical Wiring on cable colors and their uses, homeowners get an instant clue about what a circuit is for. For instance, a yellow-jacketed cable always means a 20-amp branch, according to the guide’s conventions. In every homeowner’s Guide to Electrical Wiring, NM-B (Romex) is specified for indoor use only – it’s never for outdoor or wet locations.

IV. Electrical Safety Principles: Non-Negotiables

No matter how handy you are, electricity demands respect. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring lays out four golden safety rules every homeowner must follow before touching any electrical wiring.

• Always Cut Power: The number one rule is to shut off the circuit at the breaker panel. Confirm the switch is off, and if there are multiple breakers (like a 240V circuit), turn off each one. Always assume wires are live until you test them.
  
• Lockout/Tagout Systems: If someone else could flip the breaker (even accidentally), tag it or use a lockout device. This simple step prevents others from energizing the circuit while you’re working. It’s a professional safety practice often overlooked by DIYers.
  
• Test Before Touching: Even after shutting off the breaker, use a non-contact voltage tester or multimeter to ensure no power. Wires can be miswired or feeders might carry a hidden voltage. Testing avoids shocks and fires. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring stresses: never trust the breaker switch alone.
  
• Know Your Limits: Understand that basic awareness is good, but electrical work can be complex. If you’re not 100% comfortable, call a professional. Struggles with grounding, circuits, or panel work? That’s on our list of tasks for certified electricians, not a DIY weekend.
  

MGS Prioritizes Safety: On every MGS job, safety protocols are enforced. We treat every project with caution – from disconnecting power to wearing protective gear. When you hire MGS Contracting Services through this Guide to Electrical Wiring, you’re hiring experts who respect these safety rules as much as you should. All of these principles are foundational. In any homeowner’s Guide to Electrical Wiring, you’ll find these same safety reminders first.

V. Decoding Electrical Wiring Color Codes

Wires inside cables are color-coded to show their role in the circuit. In our Guide to Electrical Wiring, we break down what each color means and point out common pitfalls:

• Black & Red = Hot: These wires carry electricity to an outlet, switch, or fixture. Black is typically the primary “hot,” and red often appears as a second hot in multi-wire cables (for example, in 240V circuits or 3-way switches). Never tie a hot wire to the neutral or ground.
  
• White = Neutral: Neutral wires complete the circuit by carrying electricity back to the panel. White wires should only connect to neutral terminals or the neutral bus bar in the panel. If you find a white wire being used as hot (common in old switch loops), it should be re-marked with tape or paint to avoid confusion.
  
• Green/Bare = Ground: Green or bare copper wires are the safety ground. They provide a path to earth in case of a fault. All ground wires tie together and connect to the panel’s ground bar and every metal box. In any proper installation, ground wires never carry current (unless there’s a short or fault).
  
• Other Colors: Sometimes you may see yellow or blue wires in conduit or multi-switch setups – these are also hot conductors. But in typical NM cable, sticking to black/red (hot), white (neutral), and green/bare (ground) is the standard.
  

Common Mistakes: Homeowners often make these wiring errors:

• Connecting neutral (white) to a hot terminal by mistake.
  
• Using a green or bare wire on a neutral terminal (ground is not neutral).
  
• Leaving unused wires bare or disconnected.
  
• Forgetting to mark a re-purposed white wire as hot in a switch loop.
  

Proper Connections (Visual Guide): Imagine a junction box with all wires visible:

1. Group Like Colors: Twist all hot wires (black/red) together under a connector, with a pigtail to the switch or fixture.
   
2. Neutral Bundle: Twist all neutral wires (white) together under a connector, with a pigtail to the neutral side of the device.
   
3. Grounds Together: Tie all green or bare wires together and attach one to the box’s green ground screw or the device’s ground terminal.
   
4. No Cross-Connection: Never mix a hot with a neutral. Always cap any spare wires you’re not using.
   

Following the color code keeps electricity flowing safely. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring reminds homeowners: if any wire color doesn’t match the standard scheme, stop and correct it. Proper color connections and marking are essential for safety.

VI. Understanding Electrical Wire Labels

Beyond colors, electrical cables are printed or stamped with labels that tell you exactly what they are. In this homeowner’s Guide to Electrical Wiring, learning to read these labels can prevent costly mistakes.

• Wire Size (Gauge): The label will start with a number (e.g., “14/2”). The first number is the gauge (14 AWG). The second number is the count of insulated conductors (2 in this case) – not counting the bare ground wire.
  
• Conductor Count: “14/2” means two insulated wires (usually black and white) plus a bare ground wire. “14/3” means three insulated (often black, red, white) plus ground.
  
• Insulation Type: Look for codes like NM-B, UF-B, THHN, THWN. For example:
  
  • NM-B is common indoor cable (the familiar Romex).
    
  • UF-B is underground feeder cable (for direct burial).
    
  • THHN/THWN are individual insulated conductors meant for conduit (often used in metal conduit runs or junction boxes).
    
• Temperature Rating: You might see “60°C” or “90°C” on the sheath. That tells you the maximum temperature rating of the insulation. Most NM-B is 90°C rated but often terminals are limited to 60°C, which affects connection ratings.
  
• Why Labels Matter: If a cable reads “12/2 NM-B W/G”, you know: 12 AWG wire, two insulated conductors with ground. That means it’s a 20-amp indoor cable. Installing it on a 30-amp circuit would violate code. (Note: “W/G” stands for “with ground.”) Our Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes reading these labels – never guess the type.
  

Example: If you pick up “12/3 NM-B”, you should use it on a 20-amp circuit and connect it as two hot wires (black, red), one neutral (white), plus ground. If you try to use that outdoors, it’s wrong – NM-B is not rated for wet locations. MGS Material Selection: At MGS Contracting Services, we never guess. In fact, we follow the standards of our Guide to Electrical Wiring by reading each wire label carefully. If a job calls for a 20A circuit, we’ll install exactly the cable labeled “12/2 NM-B.” The result is wiring that exactly matches code and prevents failures.

Remember: before installing any cable, check its markings. This can save time and avoid rework. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring teaches that a quick glance at the label can confirm you have the right wire for the job.

VII. What is Direct-Burial Cable and When Do You Need It?

Not all wires can go everywhere. The Guide to Electrical Wiring highlights that indoor and outdoor wiring rules differ. Direct-burial cable (like UF-B) and conduit systems keep outdoor wiring safe.

• Indoor vs Outdoor Wiring: Standard NM cable (Romex) must stay inside dry walls, ceilings, or conduit. It’s not UV or moisture resistant. For outside, you need either cable rated for wet conditions or run wires through conduit. Our homeowner’s Guide to Electrical Wiring always emphasizes: never use indoor NM cable outdoors.
  
• Direct-Burial Cable (UF-B): “Underground Feeder” cable is built to be buried without extra conduit. UF-B has a thick plastic jacket enclosing the conductors. It can be buried directly underground (with code-specified depth, usually 18 to 24 inches) for things like yard lighting or outbuildings.
  
• Buried Without Conduit: The electrical code allows using UF-B directly in soil only if it’s buried to the correct depth. You cannot use regular NM cable underground. For example, if you run power to a detached garage or shed, you must either use UF-B or run THHN wires in PVC conduit. The Guide to Electrical Wiring cautions: using the wrong cable underground can lead to corrosion, short circuits, or fire.
  
• Best Practices for Outdoor Wiring:
  
  • Conduit: For most outdoor runs, consider conduit (PVC or metal). Inside conduit, you can pull THHN wires. Conduit also protects wires from digging and sunlight.
    
  • Weatherproof Components: Any junction or disconnect outdoors must be in a proper weatherproof box. Seal all openings and use gaskets.
    
  • Depth and Protection: Always follow local code for burial depth. In many areas, 18 inches of cover is required for UF cable. If digging by hand in rocky soil, some electricians go even deeper. Always check local guidelines or ask MGS for specifics.
    

In short: Use the right cable outdoors. This Guide to Electrical Wiring warns that an indoor-rated cable run outside is a fire and safety risk. With MGS, all outdoor wiring is handled using approved materials and proper burial, so your system stays safe rain or shine.

VIII. Electrical Wire Stripping Basics

Before making any connection, you need to strip the insulation off the ends of wires. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes proper stripping technique to ensure a safe, clean connection without damaging the copper core.

1. Use the Right Tool: A quality wire stripper (with gauge slots) is best. Set it to the wire’s gauge, so it cuts only the insulation and not the copper. Avoid using knives or pliers, which easily damage the wire.
   
2. Measure and Mark: Typically, you’ll strip about 3/4 inch of insulation for a standard outlet or switch. Most wire strippers have notches or markings. Mark the length if needed.
   
3. Strip Gently: Place the wire in the correct notch, squeeze, and rotate the stripper 1/4 turn. The insulation should be scored but the copper intact. Then, pull off the insulation cap. If the copper strands snag or flatten, you may need to try again.
   
4. Inspect the Conductor: The copper should be clean and undamaged. If any strand is nicked or cut, trim the wire and strip again. Even a small nick weakens the wire, potentially turning normal current into a hot spot. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring stresses: avoid nicking the conductor at all costs.
   
5. Twist If Stranded: Most home wiring uses solid copper (not stranded), but if you’re stripping multi-stranded wire, give the exposed copper a gentle twist so it stays together in the connector.
   

Pro Tip: Use a proper wire stripping tool rather than pliers to ensure a clean strip. Don’t pull too hard or twist sharply, or you can break wires. Keep the copper core neatly twisted and straight, making it easy to wrap under a screw or insert into a connector. Proper stripping is a small step that pays off with a reliable, long-lasting electrical connection.

IX. Electrical Box Fill Capacity

Electrical boxes (outlet boxes, junction boxes, etc.) are measured in cubic inches for a reason: they can only hold so many wires safely. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring reveals why box fill matters.

• Why It’s Dangerous: Overfilled boxes can overheat and make it easy for insulation to wear through. Wires jammed together can rub against each other or against the box edges, risking shorts or fires. Plus, tight quarters can make it hard to pull a wire nut on properly.
  
• How to Calculate Box Fill: The National Electrical Code (NEC) sets rules. Each insulated conductor counts as one unit of volume. For example (approximate): 14 AWG wire needs about 2.0 cubic inches per conductor; 12 AWG needs about 2.25 cubic inches; 10 AWG needs about 2.5 cubic inches. Ground wires (all together) count as one conductor. Each device (like a switch or receptacle) also adds one unit for its yoke. Add up the volumes of all conductors + devices, and compare to the box’s volume rating (stamped on the box). If it exceeds the box size, you’re overfilled.
  
• Box Sizes: A typical single-gang plastic box might be 18 cu in or 21 cu in. For example, four 12-AWG wires plus one switch (with 2 device units) requires about 42.25 + 22.25 = 13.5 in³, fitting in an 18 cu in box. But stuffing those same wires into a standard 10 cu in box would violate code.
  
• Hidden Danger: Many homeowners don’t calculate box fill and just stuff wires in. The Guide to Electrical Wiring warns: always check. If your light switch or outlet box is overcrowded, replace it with a bigger box or add another box. Pulling a new wire into an overfilled box can tear the insulation on existing wires.
  
• Plan for the Future: The Guide to Electrical Wiring suggests leaving room for expansion. If you might add more cables or fixtures later, choose a larger box now. It’s easier than ripping out old boxwork later.
  
• DIY vs Pro: Calculating box fill can be tricky. In fact, this Guide to Electrical Wiring cautions that improper box sizing is a common DIY mistake. If in doubt, let MGS calculate and install the box. Our electricians will pick the right size box for the number of cables and devices, ensuring plenty of room.
  

Remember: Never shortchange box volume. It’s a hidden fire hazard otherwise. If you add circuits or devices, upgrade the box or use multi-gang boxes. The next time you open a junction box, visualize the volume – if the wires are crammed, call MGS.

X. Inside the Circuit Breaker Panel

The circuit breaker panel (also called a service panel) is the heart of your home’s electrical system. The Guide to Electrical Wiring explains what happens inside and why it’s not a DIY area for most homeowners.

• What Is a Service Panel?: It’s the main distribution point for power entering your home. A large meter (where power comes in) feeds into your panel, which contains a main breaker that kills power for the whole house, plus individual breakers for each branch circuit.
  
• How Breakers Work: Each circuit breaker has a set amperage (15A, 20A, etc). If a circuit tries to draw more than that, the breaker automatically trips (opens) to stop the current. This protects the wires from overheating. Think of breakers as automatic switches that guard against overloads and short circuits.
  
• Common Panel Problems: Over the years, panels can show wear:
  
  • Loose or corroded connections that heat up and trip breakers unexpectedly.
    
  • Outdated panels or breakers (older homes may have fuse boxes, which lack modern safety features).
    
  • Missing AFCI (Arc Fault) or GFCI (Ground Fault) protection on required circuits.
    
  • Overcrowded panels with “double-tapped” breakers (two wires under one breaker).
    
  • Crowded or incorrectly labeled panels making it hard to shut off the right circuit.
    
• Proper Labeling: The Guide to Electrical Wiring reminds homeowners to label each breaker clearly. A labeled panel speeds up repairs and emergency shutdowns. If a breaker label says “Kitchen,” you instantly know what it protects. Don’t leave circuits unlabeled – it’s a common oversight.
  
• Not DIY: The panel contains live parts even when breakers are off, and it involves the main service. For safety and code compliance, only qualified electricians should open the panel. The Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes: do not install breakers, change wiring, or repair a panel yourself. One mistake can cause electrocution or fire.
  
• MGS Expertise: Our electricians inspect panels for issues (rust, arcing, outdated components) when doing any job. If we see a problem, we’ll recommend an upgrade. We also handle breaker changes, adding sub-panels, or entire panel upgrades – all with the right permits and code knowledge.
  

Because a panel is so critical, the Guide to Electrical Wiring strongly suggests scheduling periodic inspections. A well-maintained panel avoids surprises and keeps your electrical system working reliably.

XI. Electrical Disconnect Switches

Disconnect switches aren’t just for professionals – homeowners should know what they are and when they’re needed. As our Guide to Electrical Wiring explains, a disconnect switch is a simple device that provides a safe, quick way to cut power to a specific circuit or appliance.

• What Is a Disconnect Switch?: It’s a switch (often a heavy-duty switch or circuit breaker) that isolates power. It might look like a regular switch or a larger lever inside a weatherproof box. Typically, there’s a main disconnect (your main breaker), but additional disconnects are often required by code for certain equipment.
  
• When Required by Code: Many larger appliances or outdoor units need their own disconnect. For example, an air conditioning unit or heat pump requires a disconnect mounted on the house within sight of the unit. Pool pumps, hot tubs, and similar systems also need a local disconnect. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring notes that these requirements are not optional safety measures. If an appliance can draw heavy current (like an AC or pool pump), it legally must have a nearby disconnect switch.
  
• Outdoor Installations & Safety: For outdoor equipment, the disconnect must be rated for wet locations. That means a weatherproof box and cover. It should be easily accessible – within 50 feet or in line-of-sight of the appliance. Install it where a technician can reach it quickly. Any exposed switch must also be lockable if required (for example, near public walkways).
  
• Installing One the Right Way: Adding a disconnect involves matching the switch rating to the appliance. For instance, a 30A switch for a 20A AC unit is fine; a smaller switch on a bigger unit is not. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes that any exterior switch box needs proper sealing and conduit protection. MGS can install these safely: we ensure the disconnect is correctly wired, weatherproof, and clearly labeled.
  

Remember: a disconnect switch is like a local “emergency kill switch” for an appliance. The Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes that such switches should always be installed correctly. With MGS, you’ll have any necessary disconnects added per code, giving you easy and safe control over high-power equipment.

XII. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

• What are the 3 main types of electrical wires? In everyday home wiring, we think of three “types” based on function: hot (black/red), neutral (white), and ground (bare/green). These correspond to the power path: hot brings current in, neutral returns it, and ground is the safety return. (Our Guide to Electrical Wiring calls these the three fundamental conductors in any residential cable.)
  
• What are the 4 basic rules of home wiring? The four golden rules are: (1) Cut power (turn off the breaker), (2) Lockout/tag the circuit, (3) Test wires before touching, and (4) Know your limits (call a professional if unsure). These are exactly the steps we outlined in Section IV above. (These are the same four rules outlined in Section IV of our Guide to Electrical Wiring.)
  
• What safety steps should I take before DIY electrical work? Always switch off the correct breaker and verify it’s off with a tester. Wear safety glasses and use insulated tools. Don’t work in wet areas, and stand on a dry surface. Follow our 4 golden rules above in every project. Our guide stresses: never skip the tester step or bypass safety gear.
  
• How do I know what size wire I need? It depends on the circuit’s amperage. For lights and 15A circuits use 14 AWG. For 20A circuits (most outlets) use 12 AWG. If you have a specific appliance, check its manual (it often tells you the required wire gauge). In general, up to 15 amps = 14-gauge, up to 20 amps = 12-gauge, up to 30 amps = 10-gauge. Our Guide to Electrical Wiring emphasizes always double-check with a wire gauge chart or an electrician for special cases.
  
• Can I run indoor-rated wire outdoors if I use conduit? Generally, no. Most NM-B cables are not sunlight or moisture resistant, even in conduit, since moisture can seep in. For outdoor conduits, use THHN/THWN wire inside, which is rated for wet locations. If you need a direct-burial cable, use UF-B. Always check the cable’s labeling. The Guide to Electrical Wiring warns against thinking conduit fixes everything. Always use wire type approved for the location. (See Section VII of this Guide to Electrical Wiring for more detail.)
  

Each answer above is covered in more depth throughout this Guide to Electrical Wiring. Refer back to the relevant sections for more details. If your question isn’t answered here, our full Guide to Electrical Wiring or MGS’s consultations can help.

XIII. Why Choose MGS Contracting Services for Electrical Work?

When it comes to home electricity, you want the best. MGS Contracting Services ticks all the boxes:

• Trusted Expertise: The advice in this Guide to Electrical Wiring isn’t just theory – it reflects the standards we follow on every MGS job. When you hire us, you get the benefit of these strict guidelines in real life.
  
• Licensed & Insured Electricians: Our team meets or exceeds all certification requirements. You’re protected because we carry full insurance and follow regulations to the letter.
  
• Code-Compliant Installations: Every job follows the latest electrical codes. We pull permits when needed and ensure inspections pass with flying colors.
  
• Safety First, Professional Service: Our techs arrive on time, in uniform, with clean vehicles. We use quality materials and keep your workspace neat. Safety is always prioritized – from turning off breakers to using personal protective equipment.
  
• Free Consultations: Not sure what you need for your project? MGS offers free consultations. We’ll evaluate your current wiring, suggest upgrades, and provide a no-obligation estimate. This proactive approach often saves money by catching issues early.
  

Choosing MGS means peace of mind. We stand by our work with guarantees and live by the same rules you’ve learned in this Guide to Electrical Wiring.

XIV. Final Thoughts

A little knowledge can go a long way, but it’s no substitute for professional expertise. This Homeowner’s Basic Guide to Electrical Wiring has covered the essentials – from choosing the right wire size to understanding safety protocols – so you can stay informed and safe. Remember, following these guidelines can prevent house fires and accidents, especially during high-use seasons like summer.

If you ever feel unsure about a wiring task, this Guide to Electrical Wiring strongly recommends calling a professional. MGS Contracting Services is ready to help with inspections, repairs, or upgrades. (If anything confuses you, refer back to this Guide to Electrical Wiring, or just call MGS for answers.) Stay safe, stay informed, and let us handle the tough stuff so you can enjoy your home worry-free!

Contact MGS Contracting Services today to schedule an electrical inspection or upgrade your outdated wiring. Your home and family’s safety are worth it.