When the Energy Bill Suggests a Bigger Home-Performance Problem

Thermostat placement is important, but it is not a complete explanation for every uncomfortable room or high utility bill.

Sometimes, moving the thermostat would be like relocating the smoke alarm because dinner burned. The control is reporting a symptom. The real issue is somewhere else.

Warning signs of a broader problem may include:

• The HVAC system runs almost constantly
• One floor is dramatically warmer than another
• Certain rooms never become comfortable
• The thermostat differs substantially from a reliable separate thermometer
• Indoor humidity remains high
• Energy use rises sharply without a clear change in weather or household activity
• The system starts and stops repeatedly
• Airflow from vents is weak
• Recently added rooms are uncomfortable
• The house feels drafty
• The attic becomes extremely hot
• Ducts make unusual noises
• The system produces unusual odors
• The thermostat screen loses power
• Error messages appear repeatedly
• Windows develop condensation under unexpected conditions
• Doors are difficult to keep open or closed when the system runs
• Some rooms feel pressurized while others feel starved for air

These signs do not identify one guaranteed cause. They indicate that the house deserves a broader evaluation.

CREDIT: DAN LEFEBVRE / UNSPLASH

The House Is a System

A home is not a collection of unrelated products.

Walls, ceilings, windows, doors, insulation, air sealing, ducts, equipment, room layouts, vents, thermostat controls, sunlight, moisture, and occupant habits all interact.

Change one part and the others may respond.

Install larger windows, and solar heat gain may increase. Remove interior walls, and airflow patterns may shift. Build an addition, and the existing system may need to serve more area. Finish a basement, and the pressure relationships between floors may change. Convert an attic, and the new room may sit directly beneath the hottest surface of the house.

A whole-home comfort solution may involve several improvements rather than one device.

Depending on the cause, possible strategies may include:

• Air sealing
• Attic insulation
• Wall insulation where accessible
• Duct sealing
• Duct redesign
• Airflow balancing
• Additional return-air pathways
• Window improvements
• Solar-control shades
• Exterior shading
• Ceiling fans
• HVAC zoning
• Equipment replacement
• Thermostat relocation
• Remote sensors
• Smart controls
• Layout changes
• Better transitions between the original home and an addition
• Improved ventilation
• Moisture management

A trusted professional should avoid jumping to conclusions. Replacing the thermostat because one room is warm may be quick, but it is not thoughtful if the real problem is a poorly insulated attic, disconnected duct, or sun-baked addition.

The best home improvements begin by asking why the house behaves the way it does.

Thermostat Placement During a Remodel, Addition, or Open-Concept Conversion

A thermostat location selected for the original floor plan may stop making sense after a major renovation.

This happens more often than homeowners expect because the thermostat is easy to overlook. It sits quietly on the wall while attention goes to cabinetry, flooring, windows, fixtures, furniture, lighting, and finishes.

Then the project is complete, dinner goes into the new double oven, and the thermostat begins reporting from the middle of the kitchen’s heat zone.

Why the Old Location May No Longer Work

A remodel can change thermostat conditions in several ways:

• A wall is removed, exposing the thermostat to kitchen heat
• A dining room becomes part of an open kitchen
• An addition shifts the center of family activity
• A fireplace is installed nearby
• A hallway becomes enclosed
• A formerly protected wall is exposed to a new exterior doorway
• A television and media center are placed beneath the thermostat
• A larger window introduces direct afternoon sun
• New lighting adds heat near the sensor
• A quiet room becomes a full-time home office
• A new supply vent blows toward the existing thermostat
• The original thermostat wall is removed entirely
• A basement is finished and begins using the system differently
• A mudroom or laundry room is added near the control location
• A vaulted ceiling changes vertical air movement
• The HVAC system is rezoned or divided

The wall may not move, but the thermostat’s job has changed.

Questions to Ask Before Closing the Walls

During a renovation, the thermostat deserves a place on the planning checklist.

Before insulation, drywall, cabinetry, tile, trim, and paint close access, ask:

• Does the thermostat still represent the main living areas?
• Will new appliances warm the sensor?
• Will sunlight reach it after window or door changes?
• Will a supply vent blow toward it?
• Will a return or doorway create unusual air movement?
• Does the new HVAC design require zoning?
• Will the addition need its own thermostat or remote sensor?
• Is there an accessible route for control wiring?
• Does the selected smart thermostat require a common wire?
• Is Wi-Fi reliable in the proposed location?
• Will furniture or artwork eventually cover the device?
• Can the thermostat be serviced without damaging finished work?
• Will the location remain useful if the family’s room usage changes?
• Does the control need to be accessible to occupants with mobility considerations?
• Is the location compatible with the equipment manufacturer’s requirements?

These are inexpensive questions to ask early and potentially expensive questions to ignore.

Moving thermostat wire while a wall is open may be straightforward. Moving it after custom cabinetry, finished drywall, detailed trim, and fresh paint are complete can be far more disruptive.

How MGS Contracting Services Fits Into the Conversation

A successful remodeling project should not only look better. It should function better.

That means planning the visible design and the systems behind it as parts of the same home.

During kitchen remodeling, basement renovation, home additions, open-concept conversions, and whole-home remodeling, MGS Contracting Services helps Northern Virginia homeowners think through how the new space will interact with:

• Heating and cooling
• Airflow
• Natural light
• Solar exposure
• Insulation
• Air sealing
• Electrical requirements
• Room use
• Smart-home controls
• Windows and doors
• Interior and exterior transitions
• Qualified trade partners
• Future maintenance access

MGS should not be mistaken for an HVAC repair contractor. When HVAC control design, electrical work, engineering, specialty insulation, or another regulated trade is involved, the appropriate qualified professionals should participate.

Our value is in helping the homeowner see the full picture, coordinating the work thoughtfully, and making sure the remodeling plan does not treat comfort as an afterthought.

A renovation is not truly complete when the photographs look beautiful but the family still avoids one room every summer.

A Room-by-Room Thermostat Placement Check

Not every home has an obvious thermostat location. Use this room-by-room guide as a practical starting point.

Living Room

A living room can be a good thermostat location when it is centrally connected to the HVAC zone, regularly occupied, shaded, and exposed to normal airflow.

Watch for fireplaces, televisions, large windows, exterior doors, supply vents, floor lamps, gaming equipment, and furniture that may block the sensor.

A large living room with strong afternoon sun may not represent shaded bedrooms on the opposite side of the house. Room size alone does not make it ideal.

Family Room

Family rooms often reflect the places where people actually spend time, which can make them useful control locations.

However, these rooms frequently contain fireplaces, large televisions, media equipment, exterior doors, and expansive windows. A thermostat should be positioned away from those influences.

Dining Room

A dining room may work well when it experiences normal household conditions and is not exposed to concentrated kitchen heat.

In open-concept plans, the boundary between dining and kitchen areas can be less meaningful. Consider actual heat movement rather than the name assigned to the room on the floor plan.

Hallway

A hallway may be suitable when it is open, central, well ventilated, and connected to the rooms the system serves.

It may be a poor choice when it is narrow, closed, isolated, affected by a stairwell, or separated from occupied rooms by doors.

The question is not “Is it a hallway?” The question is “Does this hallway represent the home?”

Kitchen

The kitchen is usually a poor choice for a central thermostat because cooking, appliances, sunlight, and occupancy create frequent temperature changes.

A sensor near the kitchen may be workable in a very open plan if it remains outside the heat-producing zone, but that should be evaluated carefully.

Bathroom

Bathrooms are generally poor thermostat locations because showers, steam, heated floors, hair dryers, exhaust fans, and closed doors create highly variable conditions.

A bathroom may have its own specialized control for radiant flooring or another dedicated system, but that is different from using it to represent an entire HVAC zone.

Laundry Room

Laundry rooms are usually poor choices because dryers, hot water, enclosed space, and limited ventilation can produce temporary heat.

A thermostat outside the laundry room may also be affected if warm air regularly spills into the surrounding hallway.

Bedroom

A bedroom may be appropriate for a dedicated zone, separate system, or remote smart-thermostat sensor.

One bedroom is not always a good representative location for the entire floor. Closed doors, nighttime occupancy, sunlight, computers, and individual preferences can make bedroom conditions different from nearby spaces.

Home Office

A home office can be a valuable remote-sensor location when occupied throughout the day.

Consider computers, monitors, printers, task lighting, closed doors, and afternoon sun. A small office full of electronics may run warmer than the rest of the house.

The sensor can help identify that difference, but additional airflow or shading may still be needed.

Basement

Basements often remain cooler than upper floors because of their relationship to the ground and reduced solar exposure.

A basement thermostat should not control upper floors unless the HVAC system was intentionally designed that way. Otherwise, the cool basement may satisfy the thermostat while bedrooms above remain warm.

Finished basements may also develop their own comfort and humidity needs that deserve separate consideration.

Stairwell

Stairwells can be problematic because they experience vertical air movement. Warm air rises, cool air settles, and the sensor may sit in a moving stream that does not represent an individual room.

An open stairwell is not automatically wrong, but placement height, airflow, nearby supply registers, and floor-to-floor temperature differences should be evaluated carefully.

Addition

An addition may behave differently from the original house because of orientation, window area, ceiling height, insulation, duct length, foundation type, and exposure.

Do not assume the original thermostat can control the addition successfully merely because the rooms connect. The new space may need remote sensing, zoning, duct modifications, or separate equipment.

Frequently Asked Questions About Thermostat Placement

Can Thermostat Placement Affect My Electric Bill?

Yes. A thermostat in an unrepresentative location may cause unnecessary HVAC runtime, premature shutdowns, repeated cycling, or frequent homeowner adjustments.

A thermostat warmed by sunlight or appliances may keep the air conditioner running after the main living spaces are comfortable. A thermostat cooled by direct supply air may shut the system off before distant rooms are ready, causing the homeowner to choose lower settings.

Placement is one possible contributor, not the only explanation for a high bill.

How Far Should a Thermostat Be From a Vent?

The thermostat should be far enough from a supply vent that conditioned air does not blow directly across the sensor.

There is no perfect distance that applies to every room because vent direction, airflow velocity, ceiling height, register type, furniture, and wall layout all matter. Follow manufacturer guidance and have the location evaluated when direct airflow is suspected.

The important test is whether the thermostat senses normally mixed room air rather than newly delivered supply air.

Should a Thermostat Be on an Interior Wall?

Usually, yes.

An interior wall is generally less influenced by outdoor heat, cold, solar exposure, and exterior-wall air leakage. It is more likely to reflect stable indoor conditions.

The wall must still be evaluated for nearby vents, kitchens, bathrooms, electronics, fireplaces, and sunlight. “Interior” is a good starting point, not a complete answer.

Can a Thermostat Be Near a Return Vent?

Possibly, depending on the layout.

A return-air location may reflect air moving from the occupied space back toward the equipment, but concentrated airflow, drafts, pressure differences, nearby doors, and wall openings can still distort the reading.

The thermostat should not be placed where unusual air movement prevents it from sensing normal room conditions. A qualified professional should evaluate the specific arrangement.

Why Does My Thermostat Say 72 When the Room Feels Hotter?

Several factors can explain the difference:

• The thermostat is measuring a cooler location than the room you occupy
• A supply vent is blowing toward the thermostat
• The upstairs or distant room receives weaker airflow
• Indoor humidity is high
• Sunlight is warming the occupied room
• The thermostat requires calibration or service
• The room has large windows or inadequate shading
• Ductwork is leaking or poorly balanced
• Return air is insufficient
• Insulation or air sealing is inadequate
• Vents are blocked
• The thermostat display rounds the sensed temperature
• The separate thermometer is inaccurate or poorly located
• The system has not had enough time to stabilize

Comfort involves more than dry-bulb temperature. Air movement, humidity, radiant heat from windows and walls, clothing, activity, and personal preference all affect how 72 degrees feels.

Should the Thermostat Be Upstairs or Downstairs?

A thermostat should represent the HVAC zone it controls.

In a single-zone, multistory home, either floor may involve compromise because one sensor is trying to control areas with different heat gain and airflow. If temperature differences are significant, remote sensors, zoning, separate systems, airflow improvements, insulation upgrades, or other changes may be more effective than simply moving the thermostat from one floor to the other.

The correct answer depends on system design and household priorities.

Can I Cover My Thermostat With Artwork?

No.

Artwork, decorative covers, curtains, shelving, furniture, and other objects may restrict airflow, trap heat, or make the thermostat less responsive to normal room conditions.

The thermostat does not need to be the star of the wall, but it should be exposed to circulating air.

Can a Television Affect a Thermostat?

Yes, when the television or connected equipment is close enough to warm the surrounding air.

Large screens, gaming systems, receivers, streaming devices, speakers, and enclosed media cabinets can produce a local heat pocket. If the thermostat is within that pocket, it may request unnecessary cooling.

Will a Smart Thermostat Lower My Energy Bill?

It may help when it is compatible, properly installed, correctly located, and programmed around real household needs.

Scheduling, occupancy adjustments, remote control, geofencing, runtime reports, and room sensors may reduce unnecessary operation. However, a smart thermostat cannot repair duct leaks, add insulation, resize equipment, improve window performance, or overcome a poor installation location.

Smart controls are tools, not substitutes for a well-performing home.

Can MGS Move My Thermostat During a Renovation?

MGS Contracting Services can help evaluate thermostat placement as part of a broader remodeling plan and coordinate the appropriate qualified professionals for HVAC controls, wiring, electrical considerations, wall access, drywall repairs, trim, painting, and related work.

The exact scope depends on the renovation, equipment, location, code requirements, and trade responsibilities.

The best time to raise the question is before walls are closed.

Does a Thermostat Need a Common Wire?

Some thermostats require a common wire for continuous power, while others use batteries, adapters, or system-specific methods.

Compatibility varies. Homeowners should not assume that wire color alone confirms function. The equipment connections and thermostat requirements should be verified properly.

Can I Use a Remote Sensor Instead of Moving the Thermostat?

Sometimes.

A compatible remote sensor may help the control consider temperature in a more representative or more important room. It can be particularly useful when relocation would require significant wall work.

However, a remote sensor does not solve every airflow or insulation problem. If the selected room cannot receive enough conditioned air, prioritizing its temperature may overcool or overheat other areas.

Why Does My Air Conditioner Run After Cooking?

Kitchen heat may raise the temperature around a nearby thermostat. The system then responds as though the entire HVAC zone has warmed.

Cooking may also genuinely increase heat in an open floor plan. The issue becomes whether the thermostat is responding proportionally to the whole space or reacting strongly to a concentrated heat source.

Can Thermostat Placement Cause Short Cycling?

A thermostat exposed to direct conditioned air or rapid local temperature changes may contribute to short operating cycles.

Short cycling can also have other causes, including equipment sizing, control problems, refrigerant issues, restricted airflow, electrical problems, or system faults. Persistent short cycling should be evaluated by a qualified HVAC professional.

What Is the Best Thermostat Placement for Air Conditioning?

The best thermostat placement for air conditioning is typically a shaded interior wall with normal airflow, away from supply vents, exterior doors, windows, appliances, bathrooms, laundry rooms, fireplaces, and electronics.

It should represent the area served by the system and reflect where occupants spend time.

A Simple Homeowner Thermostat-Location Test

You do not need to begin by opening walls or ordering a new thermostat.

Start with observation.

A simple weekend investigation can help you identify patterns and give a professional better information if further evaluation is needed.

Step 1: Observe the Thermostat Throughout the Day

Check the thermostat area in the morning, midday, afternoon, and evening.

Does sunlight reach it at any point? Does a nearby wall feel noticeably warm? Does the reading change after the front door opens repeatedly? Does cooking, showering, or laundry activity affect the area?

Pay attention to the time of day. A thermostat may seem perfectly located at 9:00 a.m. and sit in direct sun at 4:00 p.m.

Seasonal sun angles also matter. A location shaded in early summer may receive more direct light later in the year.

Step 2: Compare It With a Separate Thermometer

Place a reliable thermometer near the thermostat without attaching it directly to the wall or exposing it to sunlight or vent airflow.

Allow time for the thermometer to stabilize.

Then compare readings in other frequently used rooms, such as the living room, home office, upstairs bedroom, and basement.

Minor differences are normal. Two consumer devices may not display identical values, and temperatures naturally vary through a house. What matters is a large or consistent pattern.

For example, if the thermostat repeatedly reads 73 while an upstairs bedroom sits at 79, the difference deserves investigation. The cause may be placement, but it may also be airflow, insulation, sunlight, or ductwork.

Step 3: Watch the HVAC Cycle

Observe what the system does.

Does it run for unusually long periods? Does it start and stop quickly? Does it shut off while distant rooms remain warm? Does it begin operating after cooking, laundry, a shower, or repeated door openings?

Listen for patterns rather than isolated events.

One long cycle on an extremely hot day may be normal. Repeated rapid cycles every afternoon when a vent blows on the thermostat may tell a different story.

Step 4: Inspect the Surrounding Area

Look for anything that could affect the sensor:

• Supply vents
• Return-air grilles
• Windows
• Exterior doors
• Appliances
• Electronics
• Fireplaces
• Lamps
• Curtains
• Furniture
• Artwork
• Direct sunlight
• Exterior walls
• Stairwells
• Bathrooms
• Laundry rooms
• Kitchens
• Heat from an adjacent room

Also look behind the idea of the wall. Is it an exterior wall? Is a hot utility space on the other side? Does the thermostat wire opening appear unusually large or drafty?

Do not insert materials or make repairs around wiring without understanding the assembly. The purpose of this step is observation.

Step 5: Check the Filter and Visible Vents

Make sure the filter is not severely dirty and visible supply and return openings are not blocked by furniture, rugs, boxes, or curtains.

Do not assume that opening or closing random vents will solve the problem. Simply confirm that the system is not being unintentionally obstructed.

Step 6: Record What You Find

Write down:

• Date
• Time
• Outdoor conditions
• Thermostat setting
• Thermostat reading
• Separate thermometer readings
• Rooms that feel uncomfortable
• Whether cooking, laundry, showers, or electronics were active
• Whether doors were open or closed
• How long the system ran
• Any unusual sounds, odors, or error messages

These details can help an HVAC professional, energy auditor, insulation specialist, or remodeling contractor understand the pattern more efficiently.

Step 7: Call a Professional When the Pattern Is Clear but the Cause Is Not

If you can see that the problem occurs every afternoon but do not know whether the cause is sunlight, ductwork, attic heat, thermostat calibration, or equipment behavior, bring in the appropriate professional.

Also seek prompt help for burning odors, damaged wires, repeated electrical failures, unusual noises, persistent error messages, or other signs of a system problem.

Observation is useful. Guessing around potentially damaged equipment is not.

Common Thermostat Myths

Thermostats are small devices surrounded by surprisingly large myths.

Let’s clear up a few of the most common ones.

Myth Number 1: A More Expensive Thermostat Fixes Every Comfort Problem

A premium thermostat may offer schedules, remote sensors, detailed reports, occupancy detection, app control, and integration with other systems.

Those features can be valuable.

They cannot compensate for every underlying problem. A smart thermostat cannot seal a duct, add attic insulation, enlarge a return pathway, shade a west-facing window, or make undersized equipment deliver more capacity.

A new control may improve how the system operates. It cannot change the physical house by itself.

Myth Number 2: Lowering the Setting Makes the House Cool Faster

Most standard residential air conditioners cool at their designed operating capacity when called.

Lowering the setting from 74 to 60 generally does not increase that capacity. It tells the equipment to continue operating toward a much lower target.

If the house is not cooling properly, lowering the setting may create longer runtime without addressing the cause.

Myth Number 3: The Thermostat Measures the Average Temperature of the Entire House

A standard thermostat measures temperature at or around its own sensor.

It does not automatically average the living room, basement, upstairs bedroom, kitchen, and office. Some smart systems can use multiple sensors, but their averaging and priority methods vary.

Without additional sensors, the thermostat knows one location.

Myth Number 4: The Center Hallway Is Always the Best Location

A central hallway can be a good location when it is open, well ventilated, and representative.

It can be a poor location when it is narrow, isolated, affected by a stairwell, separated by closed doors, or lacking normal airflow.

The center of the blueprint is not automatically the center of comfort.

Myth Number 5: If the Display Works, the Thermostat Must Be Fine

A thermostat can power on and display a temperature while still experiencing:

• Poor placement
• Calibration problems
• Sensor issues
• Wiring errors
• Compatibility problems
• Incorrect configuration
• Intermittent power
• Wi-Fi problems
• Communication faults
• Heat from the wall or nearby devices

A working screen only proves that the screen is working.

Myth Number 6: Moving the Thermostat Is Always a Simple Weekend Project

Sometimes, a short same-wall move is straightforward for an experienced homeowner.

Other relocations involve wire routing, finished-wall access, drilling, system configuration, drywall repair, painting, smart-thermostat power requirements, and coordination with complex HVAC controls.

The thermostat is small. The project may not be.

Myth Number 7: Every Hot Room Means the Air Conditioner Is Too Small

A hot room can result from:

• Weak supply airflow
• Poor return air
• Duct leakage
• Insufficient insulation
• Air leakage
• Large windows
• Direct sunlight
• Closed doors
• Blocked vents
• A dirty filter
• A heat-producing home office
• Thermostat placement
• Zoning limitations
• Poor room integration after remodeling

Equipment size is one possibility, not the automatic answer.

In fact, oversized equipment can also create comfort problems by cycling too quickly, distributing air unevenly, and managing humidity poorly.

Myth Number 8: A Smart Sensor Will Make Every Room the Same Temperature

A remote sensor gives the thermostat more information. It does not independently control airflow unless the home also has compatible zoning or room-level controls.

If the sensor reports a warm bedroom, the system may run longer. Without the ability to direct more air specifically to that bedroom, other rooms may become colder.

Sensors improve awareness. Zoning and airflow design influence distribution.

Myth Number 9: The Thermostat Is Always the Problem When the Display Does Not Match How the Room Feels

Temperature is only one part of comfort.

High humidity can make a room feel warmer. Strong air movement can make it feel cooler. Sun-warmed windows and walls can radiate heat toward occupants. Cold surfaces can create discomfort even when the air temperature looks reasonable.

Personal activity, clothing, age, health, and preference also matter.

The thermostat provides a number. Your body experiences the entire environment.

Your Thermostat Should Understand the House You Actually Live In

Let’s return to that Northern Virginia summer afternoon.

The air conditioner is running. The thermostat says 71. Someone downstairs is under a blanket. Someone upstairs is sweating. Dinner is heating the kitchen. The basement feels like a walk-in refrigerator. The electric bill has arrived with unnecessary confidence.

The goal is not to turn the entire home into an icebox.

The goal is to create consistent, sensible comfort without asking the heating and cooling system to work harder than necessary.

For that to happen, the thermostat needs to make an honest judgment about the part of the home it controls.

It should not be sunbathing beside a window.

It should not be supervising dinner beside the oven.

It should not be standing in the steam after a hot shower.

It should not be reacting to every load of laundry.

It should not be sitting above a television, beside a fireplace, or directly in the path of a supply vent and declaring the entire house comfortable after two minutes.

The best place for a thermostat is calm, shaded, normally occupied, well ventilated, and representative of the HVAC zone it serves.

Even then, home comfort is rarely about one device alone.

It is created by the way the whole house works together: layout, insulation, air sealing, windows, doors, sunlight, ducts, room use, HVAC design, thermostat controls, moisture, and daily habits.

That bigger picture becomes especially important during remodeling.

A kitchen renovation can change heat patterns. An open-concept conversion can alter airflow. A home addition can increase demand and move the center of daily life. A finished basement can create new temperature and humidity needs. Larger windows can bring beautiful natural light and additional solar heat. A new fireplace can transform a room visually while affecting nearby controls.

These are not reasons to avoid improving the home. They are reasons to plan improvements thoughtfully.

At MGS Contracting Services, Chris Chapman and the team help homeowners in Loudoun County, Fairfax County, and throughout Northern Virginia create spaces that are more than attractive. The goal is to create homes that support real family life—homes that function better, feel better, and remain comfortable long after the final photograph is taken.

MGS is not presented as an HVAC repair company. When a project requires specialized HVAC controls, electrical work, engineering, insulation expertise, or another qualified trade, thoughtful coordination helps make sure those professionals are working toward the same result.

Because a successful remodel should do more than change how your home looks.

It should improve how your home feels.

Start Planning a Smarter, More Comfortable Home

Is your home uncomfortable even though the air conditioner seems to run all day? Are you planning a kitchen remodel, home addition, basement renovation, open-concept conversion, or whole-home improvement that could affect thermostat placement, airflow, insulation, windows, or room use?

Contact MGS Contracting Services to begin planning a smarter, more comfortable home transformation.

Chris Chapman and the MGS team can help you evaluate how a proposed renovation may affect the way your home looks, functions, and feels throughout every season, while coordinating with qualified trade professionals when specialized HVAC, electrical, engineering, or other technical expertise is required.

Your thermostat may be small, but the questions surrounding it can reveal something important:

Every part of the home is connected.