It’s a Saturday morning in Virginia—birds are chirping, the kids are playing in the yard, and you’re standing on your deck with a coffee in hand, imagining how much better it could look with a new surface. Wood Deck
Virginia homeowners can relate to this scene. Choosing the right wood deck board material can make that daydream a reality, but it’s about more than just looks. The material under your feet affects your deck’s durability, maintenance needs, cost, and even how comfortable it feels on bare feet. Virginia’s climate adds an extra challenge – our hot, humid summers, wet springs, and cold winters mean deck boards must endure constant expanding and contracting without cracking. If a wood type isn’t suited for moisture and temperature swings, Virginia’s weather (from heavy rain and humidity to occasional snow) can deteriorate it quickly. In this guide, we’ll break down the 5 best wood deck board materials used by Virginia homeowners. We’ll rank them by cost, upkeep, appearance, and lifespan, so you can decide which is the perfect fit for your family’s deck. Let’s dive in!
CREDIT: PINTEREST
1. Pressure-Treated Wood — Virginia’s Tried-and-True Favorite
Why homeowners love it: Pressure-treated lumber is by far the most common wood deck board material in Virginia. It’s affordable and readily available at any local Home Depot, Lowe’s, or lumber yard, making it the go-to for budget-friendly decks. Most pressure-treated boards here are made from fast-growing Southern Yellow Pine (or sometimes Douglas fir) that’s been pressure-infused with preservatives to resist rot, fungus, and termites. During treatment, the wood is saturated with a copper-based chemical (often copper azole, or “CA-C,” the modern industry standard) which gives the lumber a slight greenish tint. Don’t worry – that green hue will fade to a more natural honey-brown and eventually a weathered gray over time. The result is lumber that can shrug off insect damage and fungal decay for many years. Wood Deck
Pros: Pressure-treated (PT) deck boards tick a lot of boxes for Virginia families: Wood Deck
- Low cost: It’s typically the least expensive decking option. PT pine decking averages about $3–$6 per square foot, making it extremely budget-friendly. You can cover a large deck without breaking the bank.
Wood Deck - DIY-friendly: Treated wood is still softwood, so it’s easy to cut, saw, drill, and nail. Weekend DIYers can customize their deck shape or add built-in benches with standard tools. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Long lengths available: You can buy PT boards in lengths up to 16 or 20 feet, meaning fewer visible seams on your deck surface. This gives a cleaner look compared to shorter, composite boards. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Widely available: Every lumber supplier in Virginia stocks pressure-treated pine. If you need an extra board or two, it’s as close as the nearest hardware store. No special ordering required. Wood Deck
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Cons: There are some downsides to be aware of, especially for families with kids or pets: Wood Deck
- Splinters without upkeep: If not sealed regularly, PT wood tends to crack and splinter as it dries out in the sun. Annual sealing is key to keep the surface smooth. Without that maintenance, weather can cause the boards to splinter and warp over time – not ideal for little feet running around. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Warps with moisture: Pine is a bit prone to expanding, contracting, and even cupping if it soaks up too much moisture. Cheap, wet-treated boards can shrink or twist as they dry, especially in our humid climate. Keeping them sealed or stained helps lock out water and minimize this movement. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - “Green wood” look: Some people don’t love the initial greenish tone of newly-treated lumber. Although it fades, that first-year color can be less attractive to certain homeowners. Many choose to stain their PT deck a richer wood tone once it’s dry enough, to mask the green. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Chemicals in the wood: Modern pressure-treating chemicals are considered safe for residential use, but you still wouldn’t want kids chewing on the railing or pets gnawing the wood. It’s infused with insecticide and fungicide, after all. As a precaution, wash hands after contact and never burn PT wood scraps (the smoke would be toxic). Wood Deck
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Virginia homeowner tip: If your deck is a primary play area for children or a hangout for barefoot pets, plan to sand and seal the deck twice a year (for example, every spring and fall). This extra effort keeps the surface smooth and splinter-free for little feet. One parent in Virginia Beach learned that the hard way after their kids got minor splinters – now they swear by a springtime sealing routine to keep their pressure-treated deck safe and comfy. Water-repellant sealers with UV protection will also reduce cracking and splitting, preserving the wood longer. Wood Deck
Pro installation notes (Chris Chapman): For a cleaner and safer finish, consider using hidden fastener systems or screws driven from below, so there are no nail heads on the walking surface. This not only looks better – no nail pops or rust stains – but also feels better underfoot (nothing to stub toes on). And whenever you cut a pressure-treated board, seal or stain the cut ends before you install it. The treatment chemicals don’t always penetrate to the core of the wood, so brushing a bit of end-cut preservative or exterior oil on those fresh cuts ensures bugs and rot don’t attack those vulnerable spots. It’s an extra 30 seconds per cut that can add years to your deck’s life.
2. Ipe Wood — The Luxury Hardwood for Lifelong Decks Wood Deck
If pressure-treated pine is the trusty family sedan of deck materials, Ipe (pronounced “ee-pay”) is the Ferrari. This exotic Brazilian hardwood is often called “Ironwood” for good reason – it’s incredibly dense and hard (Ipe scores about 3,680 on the Janka hardness scale, nearly three times harder than Northern Red Oak!). An Ipe deck has a rich, luxurious look: the boards come in beautiful deep brown tones with fine grain, often compared to mahogany. Thanks to Ipe’s natural oils and density, it’s naturally resistant to rot, insects, and even UV damage – no chemical treatment needed. In fact, Ipe is so durable that it earned a Class A fire rating (similar to concrete or steel), and it was used on the Coney Island boardwalk and still lasted decades. For Virginia homeowners who want the ultimate “forever” deck, Ipe is as high-end as it gets. Wood Deck
Pros: Wood Deck
- Stunning appearance: Ipe wood has a striking, high-end look. The color ranges from chocolate brown to olive-brown, sometimes with hints of red or amber. The tight grain and fine texture give it an elegant look that ages beautifully. If left untreated, it will weather to a silver-gray patina that many find attractive; if you oil it, you can maintain the rich dark tone year after year. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Extreme durability: This hardwood is so dense that you can literally sink a piece in water. Its density and natural oils make it incredibly resistant to rot and termites, even in direct ground contact. In Virginia’s humid, buggy summers, Ipe stands up better than anything. It doesn’t easily scratch, dent, or splinter – you could drag heavy furniture or have dogs run on it with little impact. It’s often touted as a “50-year wood,” but in reality, Ipe decks can last 40 to 75+ years with minimal upkeep. For a homeowner planning to stay put long-term, it might be the last deck you ever build. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Low maintenance (structurally): Unlike softer woods, Ipe doesn’t require regular sealing to keep from rotting – it’s so rot-resistant that even if you never apply a sealer, the wood itself remains strong (it will just turn gray). It has very stable properties, so it’s less prone to warping or cupping with moisture changes. Essentially, an Ipe deck left alone will still last for decades. The only maintenance recommended is an annual oiling if you want to preserve the original color. Otherwise, it’s a “set it and forget it” type of wood regarding integrity. Many call it the closest thing to a “maintenance-free” natural wood for decks.
Wood Deck - Longevity: As mentioned, the lifespan of Ipe outclasses virtually all other decking woods. Where pine or even cedar might need replacing after 15-25 years, Ipe can easily last 50+ years (some experts cite 75 years or more) before needing replacement. If you’re building a “forever home” or just want to invest in a deck that your grandkids could enjoy one day, Ipe is one way to do it. It’s not uncommon for an Ipe deck to outlast the house if cared for. Wood Deck
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Cons: Wood Deck
- Sky-high price: All this performance and beauty comes at a cost – literally. Ipe is one of the most expensive wood deck materials on the market. Here in Virginia, expect Ipe deck boards to run on the order of $$$. In material terms, that’s roughly $10–$20 per square foot just for the lumber (some local suppliers or smaller dimensions might start a bit above $10, and high-end or longer boards can climb north of $20). By comparison, that’s about 3-5 times the cost of pressure-treated pine. Installed costs (with the special labor and screws required) can reach $40–$60+ per sq ft in upscale projects. In short, it’s a luxury choice and an investment – typically reserved for high-end homes or dream projects in areas like Fairfax, Arlington, or Charlottesville. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Difficult to work with: Ipe’s density is a double-edged sword. For contractors (and DIYers), it’s a very tough wood to cut and drill. You’ll ruin normal saw blades on this stuff – carbide-tipped blades and premium drill bits are a must. Pre-drilling for screws is required to avoid splitting, and even driving screws takes effort (often stainless steel screws with special designs are used, or hidden clip systems). Also, Ipe is heavy – hauling those boards up to your deck is a workout in itself. All this means installation labor costs are higher, and if you’re DIYing, be prepared for a workout and some extra tool purchases. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Sourcing and environmental concerns: Ipe is not native to North America; it’s harvested from Central and South American rainforests. Responsible suppliers do offer FSC-certified Ipe, but homeowners concerned about sustainability might think twice. Also, because it’s imported, supply can fluctuate, and shipping costs add to the price (those dense boards weigh a lot). You’ll likely be ordering Ipe from a specialty lumber yard or online dealer – it’s not as immediate as grabbing pine from the local store. The lead time and logistics are considerations, especially if any boards need replacing later. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Annual color maintenance: While Ipe doesn’t need sealing for protection, it will lose its dark color without UV protection. If you love that deep brown, factor in an annual oiling with a good hardwood oil. This is a fairly easy once-a-year task – essentially mopping on an oil finish – but it’s important if you don’t want the wood to turn gray. Skipping oil won’t harm the wood’s strength, but it will change the look. Some owners embrace the silver patina; others diligently oil each spring to keep the “like new” look. This is a minor con, but worth noting that “low maintenance” doesn’t mean “no maintenance” if appearance matters to you.
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Virginia homeowner insight: Ipe tends to show up on “luxury” decks – think expansive modern terraces in Fairfax, rooftop decks in Arlington, or beautiful lakefront wraps in spots like Charlottesville. If you’re building a high-end outdoor living space with kitchens or custom railings, Ipe fits right in. It’s also perfect for homeowners who plan to stay in their house for a long time and want a deck that will age gracefully over decades. While the upfront cost is high, these folks consider it an investment in quality; over 40-50 years, the cost evens out when you don’t have to replace the deck. One Charlottesville homeowner said after choosing Ipe, “I wanted something natural but as worry-free as composite. I splurged on Ipe and 10 years later I have zero regrets – it still looks amazing and I know I’ll never need to replace rotten boards.” For those who can budget for it, Ipe delivers unmatched peace of mind. Wood Deck
Pro tip (Chris Chapman): “Ipe is as close as you can get to a maintenance-free natural wood,” Chris says. “Just oil it once a year to preserve its deep tone and you’re set.” He also notes a proper installation is key: use stainless steel fasteners or hidden clips designed for hardwood, and seal any cut ends with an end-grain sealer to prevent any checking. Because Ipe is so dense, it doesn’t absorb regular deck stain well – stick to specialized Ipe oil products. And don’t be alarmed if you see the boards expel some reddish-brown ‘tea’ after installation; that’s tannins washing out, and it will fade. Overall, a well-built Ipe deck is about as solid and long-lasting as a deck can be. “You could park a tank on it,” Chris jokes, “though I wouldn’t recommend that to my clients!”
3. Redwood — The Classic Beauty with a Fading Supply
There was a time when Redwood was the crown jewel of American decking, especially out west. It’s a gorgeous wood, prized for its naturally rich reddish hue that can make a deck look stunning even without any stain – the color is built in by Mother Nature. Redwood (harvested from sequoia redwood trees, primarily in California) contains natural oils and tannins that give it excellent resistance to rot, decay, and insects, much like cedar. It’s also more stable than pine, meaning Redwood deck boards tend to lie flat and are less likely to warp or cup over time. The wood is relatively light in weight, easy to work with (softer than Ipe, harder than cedar – kind of a happy medium), and emits that pleasant woodsy aroma when freshly cut. For a Virginia homeowner drawn to that warm, classic “red” wood look, Redwood is a dream… if you can find it. Wood Deck
The catch: Redwood’s availability on the East Coast is not what it used to be. This wood is harder to source in Virginia because it largely grows on the West Coast. Over the decades, old-growth redwood forests became protected, and supply diminished. Today, most redwood lumber comes from younger second-growth trees, and many lumber yards in the East carry little or none of it routinely. What does that mean for you? Mainly, higher costs due to shipping and rarity. Virginia homeowners often have to special-order Redwood, paying hefty freight costs to truck it across the country. It’s not as scarce as unicorns, but you won’t find stacks of Redwood decking in your local store on a random Tuesday. Those who absolutely love it might still make the investment, but be prepared to pay a premium (sometimes 25–30% or more over the cost of pressure-treated wood, depending on market conditions). Wood Deck
Pros: Wood Deck
- Natural beauty: Redwood’s color is its calling card. Freshly milled heartwood has a deep reddish-brown tone with streaks of pink and blonde. It’s one of the few woods homeowners often choose not to stain – why cover that natural beauty? Over time, if left untreated, Redwood will mellow to a soft reddish-brown and then to a driftwood gray patina. Many appreciate both its new and weathered looks. It also has an attractive grain pattern (straight and tight in higher grades). If you want a show-stopping deck that impresses with natural wood beauty, Redwood delivers. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Naturally durable: Like cedar, Redwood has inherent chemicals (tannins, etc.) in the heartwood that fight off rot and pests. In humid Virginia summers, a Redwood deck holds up well against mold and insects compared to untreated woods. In fact, all-heart Redwood is rated for ground contact due to its decay resistance. A properly maintained Redwood deck can easily last 20-30 years. Homeowners also report that Redwood doesn’t get as hot underfoot as some composites or dense hardwoods, which is a nice bonus for bare feet on hot summer days. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Dimensional stability: Redwood has a remarkable ability to stay straight and resist warping. It’s a stable wood with low shrinkage. That means fewer popped nails, fewer cupped boards, and a more even deck surface over time. It’s also less likely to develop large cracks. Part of this is due to Redwood’s structure and the fact that many Redwood deck boards are milled from clear heartwood which has tighter grain. In Virginia’s climate of wet-to-dry swings, this stability is a big plus. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Light and strong: Redwood is a softwood (not as dense as Ipe or oak), so it’s relatively light per board foot. This makes it easier to handle and cut. Despite that, it has good structural strength and can be used for framing as well as decking (though many opt for treated pine for framing anyway). Redwood’s strength-to-weight ratio is excellent. If you’re building a second-story deck, the lighter weight can slightly reduce the load on your structure (and make the build easier on your back!). Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Ages gracefully: When Redwood is maintained (periodically cleaned and sealed), it ages into a beautiful weathered patina rather than just looking deteriorated. Some older Redwood decks take on a soft silver with a hint of rose color that people find charming. Unlike pressure-treated pine, which can look heavily cracked and tired with age, old Redwood (especially if it started as clear-grade) often still holds together well. Wood Deck
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Cons: Wood Deck
- High cost (and climbing): Redwood isn’t cheap, especially not on the East Coast. As of now, Redwood deck boards often cost 2X (or more) the price of pressure-treated pine in material costs. A ballpark range might be $7–$12 per square foot for redwood decking, depending on grade, but it can be higher when you factor in shipping. In 2025, some suppliers stopped even advertising prices because they fluctuate so much with supply. Expect to pay a premium for this wood, including potentially extra for all-heartwood grades (which you should insist on for decking; more on that below). Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Limited local supply: You might have trouble finding Redwood readily. Many Virginia lumber yards don’t stock it due to low demand and logistics. This means long lead times if you order it. If you’re planning a project, you’ll need to order your wood well in advance. Also, if you underestimate and run short, you can’t just dash out to grab another board – you may wait weeks for another shipment. This can complicate DIY projects or repairs. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Must get heartwood: Redwood has a stark difference in quality between heartwood and sapwood. Heartwood (the inner part of the log) is where all the rot-resistant oils are; sapwood (outer rings) is pale, lightweight, and decays quickly. Lower-grade Redwood decking can include sapwood, which might start rotting or getting insect damage in just a year or two if exposed. Therefore, for decking, you essentially must buy “All Heart” grade Redwood (often marked as “Construction Heart” or better). Naturally, the heartwood grades are more expensive and sometimes harder to get. Using sapwood Redwood boards on a deck is a recipe for disappointment in Virginia’s climate – they simply won’t last. So consider this more a requirement than a con: you have to be picky about grade when purchasing Redwood. Chris Chapman emphasizes this: “Always choose heartwood – the dense inner part of Redwood. It’s the key to Redwood’s longevity outdoors,” he says. Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Maintenance to prevent splinters: While Redwood has decent resistance to the elements, it is not immune to UV and water damage. Over time (especially 5-10 years down the line), a neglected Redwood deck can start to dry out and splinter on the surface, just like any wood. To keep it comfortable, you’ll need to clean and reseal or stain it every few years. The good news is Redwood takes finishes beautifully, but it’s not a set-and-forget material. If you want to preserve that red color, you’ll need a UV-blocking sealer applied regularly, as sunlight will cause some color fading (Redwood fades slower than some woods, but it will still gradually lose that red vibrancy without protection). Wood Deck
Wood Deck - Increasing rarity: The writing is on the wall that genuine Redwood is becoming a specialty product. Some suppliers note that redwood is “becoming an endangered species” in lumber yards. Using such a rare wood for a deck (which is subject to wear and tear) gives a few homeowners pause. It’s worth noting that the environmental aspect is mixed – redwood is now often harvested from sustainably managed second-growth forests (a positive), but it’s also limited in supply and high in demand for other uses. In short, you might feel a tad guilty (or proud?) using this legendary wood. Wood Deck
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Virginia homeowner tip: If you adore the look of Redwood but can’t source it affordably, consider Western Red Cedar as a strong alternative. Cedar (often just called “red cedar”) has a similar warm tone (more amber than red, but in the same family) and also boasts natural rot resistance. Importantly, cedar is widely available in Virginia and throughout the U.S., so you won’t face the same supply issues. Many East Coast homeowners who might have chosen Redwood by looks end up going with cedar for practicality. Cedar’s pros and cons are coming up next – but keep in mind it’s easier to find and usually costs less than redwood (often by 25% or more). You can even stain cedar with a slight red hue to mimic redwood’s color if desired. Wood Deck
Pro insight (Chris Chapman): “When it comes to Redwood, grade is everything,” Chris says. He insists on All-Heart Redwood for any deck projects. “The sapwood of redwood can rot or get eaten by bugs in a matter of months – it’s night and day versus heartwood.” He also advises applying a penetrating oil finish to new Redwood decks that has a tint or UV inhibitor: “That will lock in the color longer and help prevent surface checking.” Chris often uses hidden fasteners on Redwood projects as well, because the wood is a bit softer than Ipe and he likes to avoid any chance of the surface cupping around fasteners. One more tip: pre-drill your screw holes near the end of Redwood boards. It’s not as hard as Ipe, but it can split on the ends if you drive a screw too close without a pilot hole – a little preparation will keep those gorgeous boards in perfect shape. Wood Deck
4. Red Cedar — The Warm, Aromatic, and Weathered Favorite
About the material: When people refer to “cedar decking,” they are usually talking about Western Red Cedar, a beautiful softwood that grows in the Pacific Northwest and western Canada. (Eastern cedar, like the juniper that grows in Virginia, isn’t used for deck boards – it’s mostly used for closets and chests – so for decking, cedar means Western Red Cedar.) Cedar has a distinct reddish-brown to honey color with notable grain patterns, and it emits a pleasant cedar aroma especially when freshly cut. Many Virginia homeowners love cedar for its warm, rustic charm – it looks at home on a farmhouse porch, a log cabin, or a contemporary deck alike. Cedar can be left untreated (unfinished) and it won’t rot away, thanks to natural oils, though it will slowly weather. Or you can seal/stain it to preserve its color. It’s a versatile, lightweight wood that has been a staple for decks, fences, and outdoor structures for ages. Wood Deck
Pros: Wood Deck
- Natural resistance: Cedar contains oils and tannins that are natural preservatives, which repel insects and slow down rot. Unlike untreated pine or hem-fir, cedar can be used outdoors without chemical treatment and still have a decent lifespan. Those oils also give cedar its smell (and give cedar closets their moth-repelling reputation). For humid Virginia areas, cedar’s resistance means it’s less likely to succumb to fungus or termites – a big plus for longevity.
- Doesn’t absorb water readily: One key advantage of cedar is that its wood fibers are not prone to soaking up moisture. This means cedar doesn’t warp or split as easily as woods like pine when exposed to rain and sun cycles. It tends to lay flat and true over time. Cedar decking, if properly installed and maintained, often stays free of significant cupping or twisting. In Virginia, with frequent summer thunderstorms and humidity, this trait helps your deck remain smooth and even.
- Ages to a lovely patina: If you choose not to stain cedar, it will gradually weather to a silver-gray color that many find very attractive (imagine the look of old coastal boardwalks or aged cedar shingles). This patina can give a deck a charming, rustic look that blends with nature. The good news is cedar weathers mostly evenly – it doesn’t typically get black spots or patchy discoloration like some other woods. Many folks actually prefer the weathered look and intentionally leave cedar uncoated aside from a clear waterproofer, letting it grey out gracefully.
- Lightweight & easy to work: Cedar is a softwood that is lighter and softer than pine. Deck boards in cedar are easy to carry, and cutting or drilling them is a breeze (your saw blades will last a long time). For DIY builders, cedar is very forgiving – it sands nicely, you can hand-drive screws without much effort, and it’s not prone to splitting if you use sharp tools. If you need to rip boards or do custom trim, cedar won’t fight you like a hardwood. This also means less strain on the substructure due to weight.
- Great strength-to-weight ratio: Even though cedar is light, it has decent strength. It’s not as strong as pine or hem-fir in absolute terms, but for its weight, it holds up well. 5/4″ cedar deck boards (the typical decking thickness) can span joists 16″ on center in most cases. It’s also less likely to sag between joists over time compared to some composite materials of similar weight.
- Naturally beautiful grain: Cedar has a pleasing grain pattern – typically straight, with occasional interesting patterns like tight knots (if you choose knotty grade) that give it character. The color can range from light amber to deep brownish-red in the heartwood. Many homeowners love that farmhouse or cabin aesthetic that cedar provides – it pairs wonderfully with stone, with dark metal railings (for a modern rustic look), or with white trim for contrast. It’s a very versatile look that can go modern or traditional.
Cons:
- Color maintenance: If you want to keep cedar’s original reddish hue, you’ll need to apply a sealer or stain with UV inhibitors regularly. Cedar’s lovely color will fade in sunlight – typically turning light gray within a couple of years if untreated. To prevent that, plan on re-staining every 2-3 years (or use a clear UV sealer annually). This is purely aesthetic; the wood will last without it, but it won’t retain the same color. Some owners find the frequent sealing a bit of a chore – though others enjoy it as routine deck care.
- Soft surface: Cedar is a softwood (Janka hardness around 350), so its surface is more prone to scratches, dents, and dings. If you have large dogs with claws or you frequently move heavy patio furniture, expect some marks on a cedar deck. High heels or dropping tools can leave indentations more easily than on harder woods. It also means potential for splinters if the wood gets very dry or worn (though regular sealing helps prevent this by keeping the wood fibers from lifting). In short, cedar’s tactile softness is nice on feet, but it does mean you need to be a bit gentle. Using furniture pads and keeping the deck swept (grit can scratch it) will help.
- Limited board size availability: Typically, cedar deck boards come in 5/4″ thickness (about 1″ actual) for decking. It can be harder to find cedar in true 2-inch thick dimensions for structural pieces or posts (at least not without special ordering). This isn’t a huge issue, since most people use treated lumber for the framing anyway. But if you had dreams of a completely cedar structure (joists, beams, etc.), you might face challenges or high costs sourcing large cedar timbers. Standard decking widths (like 6″ nominal) are common, but options are more limited than with pine.
- Regular maintenance for longevity: Although cedar is rot-resistant, it’s not rot-proof. To get the upper end of its lifespan (20-25 years), you’ll still need to do some maintenance. Annual cleaning and a coat of water-repellent sealer every 1-2 years will go a long way. If you skip maintenance entirely, cedar will eventually develop surface checking (small cracks) and can grow mildew or algae in shady, damp areas. It also might only last on the lower end of its life expectancy (maybe 10-15 years in harsh conditions). So, while less work than say, keeping pine from rotting, cedar isn’t a completely carefree material. Think of it as a low-maintenance natural option, but not a no-maintenance one.
- Cost and grade variability: Cedar is generally more expensive than pressure-treated pine, but usually cheaper than redwood or exotic hardwoods. You’ll pay a moderate price – often in the range of $4–$8 per square foot for cedar decking boards depending on grade. Speaking of grades, cedar comes in different quality levels (knotty vs clear, etc.). The knotty “construction grade” cedar is more affordable and still good for decks, but has more knots (which some find rustic, others find less desirable) and slightly less durability than clear heartwood. Clear cedar (no knots) deck boards are premium and look stunning, but cost significantly more. Make sure you know what grade you’re getting so you can manage your budget and expectations. Even the cheaper cedar grades will perform fine, but appearance and stability can vary.
Virginia homeowner insight: Cedar is a favorite for covered porches and screened-in decks. In Virginia, we see a lot of beautiful cedar used in shaded or partially covered outdoor spaces – for instance, a covered back porch in Richmond with a cedar ceiling and floor, or a screened porch in Alexandria with cedar decking. In these applications, cedar really shines because it’s not getting blasted by full sun and heavy rain constantly, so it retains its color longer and requires less frequent sealing. Plus, the aromatic smell of cedar can linger pleasantly in a covered area. One family in Charlottesville with a cedar screened porch noted that even after a year, their porch still had a faint cedar scent when they walked in – it gives the space a true “mountain lodge” vibe. Cedar also pairs wonderfully with trendy dark metal railings or black aluminum balusters (popular in the modern farmhouse style) – the contrast of warm wood and dark metal is striking. If you’re aiming for a cozy, inviting feel where you can kick off your shoes, cedar is an excellent choice.
Pro tip (Chris Chapman): “Spend a little extra on kiln-dried cedar if you can,” Chris advises. Kiln-dried cedar decking has been dried to a stable moisture content before installation, which means the boards won’t shrink or move as much with Virginia’s humidity swings. “It’s worth the upcharge – kiln-dried boards stay flatter and the finish adheres better,” he notes. Also, when installing cedar, Chris suggests using stainless steel or coated screws (not plain steel) because cedar can cause fasteners to corrode over time due to its tannins. Another tip: Apply a gentle cleaner and brightener to cedar every few years before resealing – this will revive the color and remove any gray or mildew, essentially giving you a fresh start. And remember, if you want that silvery-grey look, you can skip staining – but still use a clear sealer to protect against water. That way you get the patina without sacrificing longevity. “Cedar’s a joy to work with,” Chris says, “It cuts like butter and the end result always has that wow factor with the grain and color.”
5. Hem-Fir — The Budget-Friendly Understudy (With Caveats)
Not everyone has heard of “Hem-Fir,” but if you’ve ever bought generic framing lumber, you might have used it. Hem-Fir isn’t a species itself; it’s a lumber industry term for a mix of Western Hemlock and various true firs (like Noble fir, Grand fir, etc.) that are grown and milled together. These woods are very similar in properties, so they get graded as one group – stamped “Hem-Fir.” As deck material, hem-fir refers typically to untreated white wood boards that are very affordable and commonly sold for construction. It’s the kind of wood you might see in pallets or in interior framing. Some resourceful homeowners consider using hem-fir lumber for decking because it’s cheap and widely available. Indeed, untreated hem-fir is among the most affordable woods you could use for a deck (aside from scavenged pallet wood). However, using it for an exposed deck comes with major caveats – mainly its lack of natural rot resistance. Let’s break down when hem-fir might be an option and how to make it work if you choose it.
Pros:
- Rock-bottom price: Hem-fir (or similar SPF spruce-pine-fir in some stores) deck boards will be very inexpensive, often in the range of $2–$4 per square foot for 2×6 boards. These are basically construction-grade boards that haven’t been pressure-treated. If you’re on a tight budget, the material cost is hard to beat. You might find 8-foot 2x6s for a few dollars each when on sale, which can make a small deck’s wood cost extremely low.
- Strong and stiff: Despite being cheap, hem-fir lumber has good inherent strength. It’s used for house framing, so it can handle loads. Deck boards (if kept dry) made from hem-fir have excellent structural capacity and span – often higher strength than cedar. In fact, new hem-fir is generally stronger than pressure-treated pine (since PT pine is usually a lower-grade #2 lumber that’s a bit softer). This means hem-fir deck boards can feel very sturdy underfoot with minimal bounce.
- Easy to work with: Hem-fir is a softwood with a fine, even grain, typically light straw or white in color and very uniform. It’s easy to cut, nail, or screw. It has no oils or resins to gum up blades, and it’s relatively light. Carpenters often love working with hem-fir because it’s predictable and not as knotty as pine can be. You can also paint or stain it any color easily since it’s basically a blank canvas (no heavy tannins or oils to interfere). If you have a specific color design in mind (say, you want to paint your deck to match your trim), hem-fir takes paint well.
- Readily available: Walk into any lumber yard or big box store, and the untreated 2x lumber you see is likely hem-fir or a close equivalent. It’s widely available across the U.S.. You won’t have issues sourcing boards in various lengths. And because it’s often used in construction, lumber yards stock a lot of it – easy to get more if you run short. Quality can vary (some pieces might be a bit warped or have more knots, since it’s not always sold with appearance in mind), but if you pick through the pile you can find decent boards.
- Good for covered locations: In a covered porch (where rain seldom blows in) or other enclosed deck areas, hem-fir can actually last a long time since it’s not getting wet routinely. If you have a screened-in porch or a veranda that’s mostly roofed over, hem-fir could be a cost-saving choice for the flooring, since it won’t be exposed to as much moisture. It essentially behaves like interior flooring in those cases.
Cons:
- Not naturally rot-resistant (at all): Here’s the big one – hem-fir has no natural chemicals to ward off decay or bugs. In fact, it’s quite vulnerable. If you use untreated hem-fir outdoors with exposure to the elements, it can start growing mold or even rotting within months if not protected. In Virginia’s climate, leaving hem-fir decking unsealed is begging for trouble: you might see green algae or black fungus patches by the end of the first humid summer, and soft spots forming not long after. Also, bugs like termites have no aversion to hem-fir – it’s a tasty meal for them if it’s not treated. So, using hem-fir outdoors absolutely requires that you immediately and diligently coat it with preservatives. Think of hem-fir like a raw piece of food: if you don’t “cook” it (i.e., treat it), it will spoil quickly outside.
- High maintenance (if outdoors): To expand on the above, if you decide on hem-fir for an exposed deck, you are signing up for a strict maintenance regimen. You will need to: Prime and paint or stain every side of each board (especially the ends) before or right after installation. Then you’ll need to reseal/repaint at least annually to keep moisture out. Hem-fir will soak up water like a sponge if its protective finish wears off, so you can’t skip or delay these reapplications. If water gets in, the wood can warp, crack, and of course rot. This level of maintenance can be more frequent than for any naturally durable wood. Essentially, the cost you save in wood, you pay in labor and materials for upkeep. Missing even one cycle can lead to rapid deterioration (for example, a missed re-sealing could mean boards start to rot from the ends or where water sits). It’s truly an “install and paint, then paint, then paint…” scenario.
- Splinters and checking: Hem-fir, especially when pressure-treated or when it goes through wet/dry cycles, has a tendency to split and splinter. In fact, pressure-treating hem-fir (if you get PT hem-fir) often involves incising the wood (little slits cut into it to help chemical penetration), which makes the surface less smooth and more likely to splinter. Even untreated, if it dries out too much, the surface can get rough. Without the natural oils of cedar or the tight grain of hardwood, hem-fir can become rough underfoot, which is not great for a deck where people walk barefoot. Regular sealing (with something that keeps the wood moisturized, like a penetrating oil) can mitigate this, but it’s something to watch. You may need to sand the deck down every so often to remove splintery wood fibers. A sealed and painted hem-fir deck can remain smooth – but again, only if you keep up with it.
- Requires prompt protection: If you install hem-fir decking, you can’t leave it exposed even for a week or two thinking “I’ll get to sealing it later.” It really needs to be sealed or painted immediately. Even a single heavy rain on raw hem-fir can lead to grain raising or fungal spores taking hold. So the timing of finishing is critical. This can make the construction process more cumbersome – you might need to pre-paint boards or prime them as soon as they’re down, then apply top coats. It’s not a “build and enjoy” situation; it’s “build, then immediately protect, then enjoy.” If you’re hiring a contractor, some won’t even work with untreated wood for decks for this reason – callbacks for issues would be too likely if the owner doesn’t follow through with finishing.
- Shorter lifespan: Even with good maintenance, a hem-fir deck exposed to weather will likely have a shorter usable life than woods like cedar or PT pine. You might get maybe 10-15 years out of it before enough areas have decayed or become problematic (especially in our climate). In a covered situation, you’ll get longer, but then again, in a covered situation cedar would last practically indefinitely too. Hem-fir just isn’t a wood that’s meant to be used outdoors in the raw – that’s why almost all outdoor hem-fir in construction is sold pressure-treated or not at all. Pressure-treated hem-fir (commonly incised and treated) is on the market for things like posts, but even then, many prefer pressure-treated pine because it penetrates better. So, while hem-fir can be coaxed into service for a deck, you should view it as potentially a stopgap or a lower-tier option that will need eventual replacement sooner than the other woods on this list.
Virginia homeowner advice: Hem-fir can be a sensible choice for specific situations: for example, covered or screened porches, where the deck boards won’t see much rain. If your deck is essentially like an outdoor room that rarely gets wet, hem-fir (properly painted or sealed) can last a long time since it’s basically in a dry environment. Another use could be a budget temporary deck or platform – if you need to build a quick low-cost deck that you might replace in a few years when budget allows for better materials, hem-fir could fit. Just remember to at least stain or paint it even for short-term use, to get those few years out of it. And if used outdoors, always prime and paint or use a good decking stain on all surfaces of hem-fir lumber. Don’t leave any end grain exposed and unsealed – that’s where water will rush in and rot will start. Also, if your hem-fir deck gets a lot of sun, consider a solid-color stain or paint in a light color; this will reflect UV and keep the wood a bit cooler and more protected (plus, a solid layer finish generally protects better than a transparent one for woods like this). Essentially, treat hem-fir deck boards like you would siding on a house – fully finish them so the weather can’t get to the wood. If you’re not willing to vigilantly maintain a hem-fir deck, you’re probably better off spending a bit more upfront on pressure-treated lumber or another material to avoid headaches and repairs.
Pro tip (Chris Chapman): Chris’s first tip: “If you’re even thinking of hem-fir for a deck, I’d urge you to consider getting it pressure-treated at least – many hem-fir boards can be bought PT, which will dramatically improve their rot resistance. It’s still affordable and worth the extra few cents per foot.” Indeed, pressure-treated hem-fir is available (often it’s the type of wood used for treated lumber in the Pacific Northwest, since pine is less common there). Pressure treatment plus your own sealing is belt-and-suspenders, but gives you a fighting chance for a long-lasting deck. Chris also emphasizes sealing all cut ends and joints: “Every time you cut a hem-fir board, brush the cut with wood preservative or at least oil-based paint” (there are products made just for this purpose). Because hem-fir is so prone to wicking water at the ends, this step is crucial. Another pro tip: “Design your deck to minimize ground contact or trapped moisture.” That means use proper spacing between boards, good ventilation under the deck, and maybe even joist tape on your framing to prevent the hem-fir from absorbing moisture from the joists. Essentially, keep it as dry as possible. “Hem-fir can work for a budget build,” Chris says, “but only if it’s sealed properly and maintained like clockwork. If you take that on, it’ll serve you; if you neglect it, nature will take it back quickly.”
Bonus: Why You Shouldn’t Use Pallet Wood for Decks
Lately, the DIY scene has been buzzing with pallet wood projects – and some folks might wonder, “Hey, can I save money by using free pallet wood for my deck boards?” It’s a fair question: pallets are often made of hardwood or pine, and you can sometimes get them for nothing. However, when it comes to building a safe, long-lasting deck, pallet wood is not a good idea. Here’s the truth behind the trend: while pallet wood can be great for rustic accent walls or furniture, it poses serious issues if you try to use it as the flooring for a deck where people will walk (and kids will play).
What’s the problem with pallet wood? A few major red flags:
- Unknown treatment and contamination: Pallets lead a hard life. You have no idea what that wood has been through or what it’s been treated with. Some pallets (especially older ones) were fumigated with toxic chemicals like methyl bromide (look for an “MB” stamp – those are a big no). Others might have been exposed to spills in warehouses – anything from pesticides to industrial chemicals could have soaked into that wood. There’s basically no way to be sure a pallet is free of nasty substances. This is not what you want as the surface where your kids might be crawling or where you’re dining al fresco. As one discussion put it, using mystery pallet wood is like picking up a random stranger’s toothbrush – you just don’t know where it’s been. For safety, it’s best to avoid pallet wood in any application with frequent human contact, especially decks (and definitely avoid it if there’s any chance someone might try to burn scraps – inhaling pallet chemical fumes is dangerous).
- Splinters and roughness: Pallet boards are usually rough-cut, thin slats (often 1/2″ to 5/8″ thick). They are not smooth and are often already splintering or cracking from heavy use. Even if you sand them, the quality of wood is generally low and prone to splitting. A deck made of pallet wood would likely be a splinter factory, which is the last thing you want for bare feet or pets. The boards can also have hidden staples or nails that are hard to fully remove – one missed nail fragment could wreck a saw blade during building or, worse, end up hurting someone. People who work with pallets often warn about embedded grit and debris in the wood as well. All in all, getting pallet boards into a safe, smooth condition is a lot of work and may not even be fully achievable.
- Short lengths and structural weakness: Pallet boards are usually short (40″ or less) and often cracked or knotty. To make a deck out of them, you’d have tons of butt joints and lots of pieces – structurally and aesthetically not ideal. Plus, these boards were never graded for span or strength; they’re meant to be supported by a bunch of closely spaced pallet stringers. On a deck, they might not hold up, especially if you tried to span them across 16″ joists. Building code would certainly not approve pallet wood for a deck structure because it’s not a graded, approved material. Even for the surface, if you ever have an inspection, non-graded pallet wood could be flagged. Essentially, pallet wood isn’t rated to hold live loads in a deck context. A member of a DIY forum put it succinctly: “I’d recommend using pallet wood only on a low-level deck as it’s not graded to ensure strength, and it wouldn’t be safe for an elevated deck”. If it’s not safe for an elevated deck, it’s questionable for any deck meant to bear people’s weight consistently.
- Hard to install & maintain: Imagine trying to build a deck where every board is a different width, thickness, and quality. That’s pallet wood. The boards might not be straight or uniform. You’d spend an enormous amount of time just salvaging and prepping the wood – removing nails, sorting by size, cutting off rotten ends, etc. Then, because they are thin, you’d likely need to double them up or add extra joists to support them. Even after all that, you have wood that is by nature not durable outdoors (most pallet wood is low-grade pine or mixed hardwood with no rot resistance, unless you luck into tropical hardwood pallets which is rare). You’d still have to seal or paint it heavily to give it a fighting chance. Maintenance-wise, a patchwork pallet deck would be hard to refinish (lots of edges and joints). It might last a couple of years, but as one builder bluntly stated on a forum: “Don’t use pallet wood (hopefully it is obvious why). But you could design the deck to look like it was made from pallets.” In other words, you can get the rustic look by using better materials and styling them to a pallet aesthetic, rather than using actual pallets.
In summary, while the rustic/reclaimed trend is popular, a deck surface is not the place to gamble with subpar wood. Chris Chapman’s stance: “Keep pallet wood for accent walls or that cool coffee table project – not underfoot on a deck where safety matters.” Your deck should be a solid, secure platform; pallet wood introduces too many risks of hidden weakness and hazards. If you love the idea of reusing wood, consider using reclaimed lumber from a reputable source that’s been graded for reuse, or use new wood and distress it or stain it to look old. You’ll get the aesthetic without compromising on the integrity of your deck.
Choosing the Right Wood for Your Virginia Home
We’ve looked at five very different wood decking materials – now, how do you choose which is best for your deck? The decision will come down to budget, maintenance commitment, desired look, and how long you want it to last. Here’s a quick comparison and rule-of-thumb guide tailored for Virginia’s climate and homeowners:
Budget Builds (Lowest Cost): If keeping costs down is the top priority, Pressure-Treated Pine or Hem-Fir are your primary options. Between the two, pressure-treated wood is usually the smarter choice for an exposed deck – it has built-in rot resistance and will last longer in VA weather with relatively straightforward upkeep (annual sealing). Hem-fir might save you a few cents upfront, but you’ll likely spend more in maintenance and it won’t last as long unless in a covered location. So for most budget-conscious projects, go with pressure-treated decking and maybe upgrade the look with a nice stain or by using higher-grade PT boards (some suppliers offer premium grade pine that’s a bit nicer looking). Hem-Fir could be reserved for covered porches or very short-term decks where you’re prepared to paint it and pamper it. In short, pressure-treated wood is the value winner for an outdoor deck – it’s used on the vast majority of basic decks in Virginia for good reason.
Mid-Range (Natural Aesthetic, Moderate Cost): If you have a bit more to spend and want a naturally attractive wood without jumping to exotic prices, Cedar or Redwood are your contenders. In Virginia, Red Cedar (Western Red Cedar) will be much easier to get and cheaper than Redwood, while still providing a beautiful look and good performance. Cedar is often the sweet spot for homeowners seeking that real wood charm without extreme cost – it’s roughly mid-priced, has that lovely warm color, and can last a couple of decades with care. Redwood, on the other hand, might be chosen by those who specifically love its rich color or have a sentimental attachment to it. It does have some structural and stability advantages, but given the shipping costs and rarity, you’d likely only choose Redwood if you’re okay paying a premium for that specific wood. If you do, make sure to get all-heart grade as noted. Cedar can be obtained in high grades too (clear cedar) which are pricey but gorgeous; however, many homeowners go for “select tight knot” cedar, which has small knots and a lot of character at a lower cost. That’s often a nice compromise. In summary, for a natural wood deck that looks great and is reasonably durable in VA, Cedar is a top choice, with Redwood as a more exclusive alternative if you’re willing to invest in it. These woods give you a classic look that fits right into Virginia’s mix of historic and natural landscapes, and they’re especially fitting if you’re aiming for a certain style (e.g., Cedar for a rustic or Craftsman feel, Redwood for a rich classic deck).
Luxury / Lifetime Deck (Highest Cost, Longest Life): If budget isn’t the primary concern and you want the best performing natural wood, Ipe is the standout. It’s the wood that can handle Virginia’s humidity, thunderstorms, and even coastal salt air (if you’re in Tidewater) with ease. An Ipe deck is an investment – often running many times the cost of a standard deck – but it pays off in longevity and wow-factor. You’re looking at a deck that could last 50 years or more, with minimal structural maintenance (just keep it clean and oiled for color). It’s perfect for those building their dream outdoor living space, or in high-end neighborhoods where premium materials add value. There are other tropical hardwoods (Cumaru, Tigerwood, Mahogany etc.) that fall in a similar category; Ipe just happens to be the most famous and proven one. If you like the idea of nearly zero-maintenance (structurally) and top-tier durability, but maybe want a slightly lower price, you could consider some of those other hardwoods as well – they typically offer maybe 80-90% of Ipe’s performance at a bit less cost. That said, among wood options, Ipe is king for longevity. It’s the choice if you simply refuse to worry about your deck’s integrity for the next few decades and love that rich hardwood look. Just budget accordingly and plan for professional installation given the complexity of working with it.
Climate Considerations: Virginia’s mix of humidity and freeze-thaw cycles favors woods that handle moisture well and don’t move a lot with temperature changes. Woods like Cedar and Ipe, which do not absorb much water and are dimensionally stable, perform excellently in this regard. They are less likely to warp during a wet summer or shrink during a dry cold winter. Pressure-treated pine can do well too, but make sure it’s installed at the right moisture level and is kept sealed. Redwood also does nicely with moisture (especially all-heart redwood) due to its stability. Hem-fir, as discussed, is on the poor end unless fully protected. One more climate tip: if your deck will be in full sun all day, consider that dark-colored woods (like fresh Ipe or stained pine) will get hotter underfoot than lighter ones (like weathered gray cedar or a light stain). Composite materials often get even hotter than wood, so one advantage of wood is usually a cooler surface in the sun – but the color still matters. If bare-foot comfort on scorching July afternoons is a priority, either plan to use a light stain or be ready to throw down an outdoor rug in the summer. Among the woods, cedar and redwood (when unstained or lightly stained) stay relatively cool to the touch.
Family-Friendly Advice: If your deck is going to double as a play area or pet lounge, smoothness and safety become key. That might sway you towards woods that are less prone to splinters. For example, cedar can be kept quite splinter-free with periodic sealing and is gentle on paws. Composite decking (while not wood, it’s worth mentioning) is another extremely splinter-free option for those concerned – many Virginia families with young kids choose composites for that reason. However, if you prefer real wood, perhaps opt for higher-grade lumber (e.g., premium pressure-treated or select cedar) which has fewer knots and defects that can snag or splinter. Also, consider using hidden fasteners or counter-sunk screws and plug them – exposed nail heads can catch little toes or cause injury. And as noted earlier, commit to a maintenance schedule: a well-maintained wood deck rarely has splinters, but a neglected one will. So if you know you might slack on maintenance, it might be better to avoid the softer woods like pine that will splinter sooner – maybe lean towards a harder wood or composite in that case. Lastly, keep it clean – a quick sweep to remove debris and the occasional sanding of any rough spot will go a long way to keeping your deck kid-friendly.
Side-by-Side Quick Stats: (for a 200-300 sq ft deck, typical maintenance, and average conditions in VA)
- Pressure-Treated Pine: $ (least expensive); Maintenance: moderate (seal annually); Lifespan: ~15 years (longer if you’re diligent); Appearance: basic wood look, can be stained any color; Potential Issues: splinters if dry, warping if not sealed, periodic board replacements after a decade or so.
- Hem-Fir (untreated): $ (cheapest wood, but not recommended exposed); Maintenance: very high (must paint/seal constantly); Lifespan: ~5-10 years exposed (15+ if covered and maintained); Appearance: pale wood, usually painted or solid-stained; Potential Issues: rot, structural failure if not religiously maintained; basically only use for special cases.
- Cedar: $$ (mid-range); Maintenance: moderate (seal every 1-2 years or let age and then just seal for protection); Lifespan: ~20-25 years with care; Appearance: beautiful warm grain, goes gray if not stained; Potential Issues: surface scratches, needs UV protection to keep color, softer so can dent.
- Redwood: $$ to $$$ (mid to high, due to sourcing); Maintenance: moderate (similar to cedar – seal periodically, especially to keep color); Lifespan: ~20-30 years; Appearance: stunning red-brown, premium look, also grays out if not sealed; Potential Issues: availability of boards for future repairs, must use heartwood grade, cost.
- Ipe: $$$ (high upfront cost); Maintenance: low structurally (the wood will last without much help) but optional moderate cosmetic (yearly oil for color); Lifespan: 40-50+ years easily; Appearance: top-of-the-line, rich dark brown, luxury vibe; Potential Issues: difficult install, heavy, need skilled labor, high material cost, can be hard to source specific lengths quickly.
Ultimately, the best wood for your Virginia deck is the one that aligns with your priorities. If you want a “set it and forget it” deck and don’t mind composite or high-end materials, you might actually consider composite or PVC (though we focused on wood here). If you want authentic wood and minimal future worry, Ipe is fantastic. If you want a classic wood deck on a reasonable budget, cedar or quality pressure-treated pine are very solid choices. And if you just need something functional for now at the lowest cost, PT pine will do the job with proper care.
One more thing: Don’t underestimate the importance of a good builder/installation. A great material can be undermined by poor installation (improper spacing, no drainage, bad fasteners), and conversely, a skilled contractor can make a budget wood deck last far beyond its years by installing it thoughtfully (for instance, orienting boards bark-side up, sealing cuts, using joist tape, etc.). MGS Contracting Services, for example, ensures all these best practices are followed, so whichever wood you choose, you get the most out of it.
FAQs: Virginia Homeowners Ask About Deck Wood
Q: Which deck wood lasts the longest?
A: When it comes to sheer lifespan, Ipe (and similar tropical hardwoods) last the longest – often 40 years or more, and in some cases up to 75 years, especially if oiled periodically. These hardwoods are incredibly resistant to rot and wear. Among more common woods, cedar and redwood can last around 15-30 years with proper maintenance. Cedar decks in Virginia might be closer to 20-25 years if well cared for; redwood similarly around 25-30 (all-heart wood). Pressure-treated pine tends to last around 10-15 years before major repairs are needed, though some decks can stretch to 20 with vigilant upkeep. Hem-fir, if used, would be on the lower end – perhaps 5-10 years exposed unless heavily protected. So, in summary: Ipe lasts the longest by far, cedar/redwood are next (decades with maintenance), and treated pine gives a solid decade or two. Composite materials can often come with 25-year or even longer warranties, but that’s another topic.
Q: Which wood is the easiest to maintain?
A: In the context of natural woods, probably pressure-treated pine is the “easiest” to maintain simply because the routine is straightforward: seal it once a year, maybe wash it, and you’re doing what’s needed. There’s no finicky oiling for color (unless you want to), and if a board goes bad, replacements are cheap and easy. Cedar and redwood are also fairly easy, but they do require sealing/staining every couple of years to prevent graying and to maximize their life – some might consider that equal effort to pine. Ipe actually requires the least to keep structurally sound (you can basically ignore it and it won’t rot), but if you care about appearance, you’ll be oiling it yearly which is a specific task (though not a hard one). One could argue Ipe is low-maintenance, but its initial cost and installation are higher. Many homeowners find pressure-treated wood plus a good deck stain to be a manageable combo: each year or two you inspect for any loose boards or splinters, do a cleaning, and apply sealer – a weekend job. With cedar, you might have to also do a bit of sanding here or there, and you have more risk of discoloration if you delay sealing. So if we’re talking minimal brainwork and widely available products, PT wood is pretty user-friendly to maintain (just keep it sealed). Of course, composite decks are easier than any wood (just wash them), but sticking to wood, pine is fine as long as you commit to sealing it.
Q: Can I mix wood types on my deck (e.g., use pressure-treated for the frame and cedar for the surface)?
A: Yes! In fact, this is a very common approach. Most decks have a pressure-treated lumber frame (posts, joists, beams) for strength and cost-efficiency, and you can absolutely use a different material for the decking and railings. For example, you might frame your deck with treated pine (since it’s hidden and in ground contact) and then install cedar deck boards on top for the look and feel you want. This hybrid method gives you the best of both: the structure is solid and rot-resistant due to treatment, and the surface is the nicer wood you prefer. You can mix and match many materials this way. Some people even do the structure in PT, surface in a hardwood like Ipe or a composite – that works too. Just be mindful of dimension differences (most decking is 5/4×6 or 1×6, whereas framing is 2x material). Also, if you mix woods, use compatible fasteners (e.g., don’t use plain steel nails on cedar or they’ll stain – use stainless or coated). Another mix scenario is using PT or composite for the deck surface but a different wood for accents, like a cedar pergola or a redwood privacy screen on the deck. There’s no structural issue with mixing as long as each material is used appropriately. One more tip: If you do use cedar or redwood atop a PT frame, consider putting strips of flashing tape on top of the joists before laying the boards – it will prevent any chemical reaction or leaching between the treated lumber and the cedar/redwood, and also double the life of your joists by keeping water out of screw holes. It’s a cheap insurance. But overall, yes, feel free to mix wood types to balance budget and aesthetics.
Q: Is staining necessary or can I leave the wood natural?
A: Staining is not strictly “necessary”, but sealing or otherwise protecting the wood is highly recommended. You can leave most wood species (cedar, redwood, even PT pine after it dries) unfinished and they won’t instantly rot – they’ll just weather to a gray color and be more susceptible to the elements. However, if you leave a deck completely raw, its lifespan will decrease and it may suffer cracking, checking, or discoloration. Sealing (with a clear or lightly tinted sealer) helps prevent water infiltration and UV damage. Stain basically combines sealing with coloration. If you like the natural color of a wood, you might choose a transparent or semi-transparent sealant that lets the color show while still giving it protection. For example, many will use a clear water-repellent on cedar just to protect it but not change the color (knowing it will still go gray eventually, but at least it’s protected). If you don’t seal at all, you’re inviting moisture to soak in – you might notice your deck stays damp longer and grows mildew, etc. So while you don’t have to “stain” in terms of adding color, you should at least apply some form of deck finish. If you do want to preserve the initial color of the wood, then yes, a stain with UV blockers is necessary (otherwise sun will bleach it out). Pine, for instance, doesn’t have a great natural color (and has that green tint initially), so most people choose to stain PT pine decks after the wood has dried out – it can greatly improve the appearance and also protect the wood. In summary: no finish at all = shorter deck life. Clear sealer = longer life, gray weathered look. Tinted stain = longer life, maintained color (or new color) look. One thing to note: some woods have natural oils (like teak or ipe) and don’t accept certain stains well; they need oil-based products made for them. But woods like cedar, redwood, pine all take stain or sealer nicely. So while it’s not “necessary” to function, we strongly advise sealing your deck wood to get the most out of it – it’s a small investment of time and money for a lot of payoff in longevity.
Q: What’s best for kids and pets – I worry about splinters and chemicals.
A: For a pure wood deck, smooth cedar is often touted as very family-friendly. It has a low splinter risk when maintained and no added chemicals that could leach (it’s naturally insect-resistant). Many parents also like that cedar doesn’t get too hot in the sun and has a bit of “give” (so if a toddler trips, it’s a softer landing than on a hard composite or tile). Redwood would be similar in these respects, being a bit harder than cedar but still generally smooth. If you go with cedar or redwood, just ensure you sand any rough spots and seal yearly to keep it splinter-free. Also, choose higher grades if possible – the fewer knots (which can pop out and leave holes or rough spots), the better for little feet. Pressure-treated pine can be okay for kids/pets if you commit to keeping it sealed and maybe do a once-over sanding after installation. Sealed PT wood shouldn’t really sliver, but if it dries out too much it can. One concern some have with PT wood is the chemicals – modern PT (ACQ or CA) doesn’t contain arsenic like the old CCA did, and it’s considered safe for contact (even for playgrounds). That said, it’s good practice to wash hands after playing on it, and don’t let kids put their mouths on it, etc. If you have a crawling baby or pets that chew, you might prefer a chemical-free wood like cedar to be extra cautious. Alternatively, composite or PVC decking is a very popular choice for families now because it’s splinter-free and has no maintenance or chemical treatment needed. No worries about splinters in paws or feet at all. The downside is composites can get hot in direct sun and can be more expensive. Some people also find they can be a bit more slippery when wet (depending on the brand’s texture). If your deck is shaded or you choose a lighter color composite, the heat is less an issue. For pets, composites are fine – larger dogs might scratch some composites, but they won’t gouge like they could in a softwood; high performance composites resist it pretty well. If going wood and splinters are a big fear, you might consider adding outdoor rugs in play areas or sanding the wood super-smooth and using a film-forming finish (like a deck paint) which can create a smoother surface (though you have to watch for peeling). In summary, smooth cedar or a quality composite would be top picks for a kid/pet-friendly deck. Pressure-treated can work too if finished nicely. We would not recommend something like untreated hem-fir or rough pallet wood at all – too many risks. And always ensure there are no protruding fasteners and that the railing is safe (little heads can’t get stuck, etc.). A well-built, well-maintained deck made of almost any material can be family-friendly – but if you want the lowest odds of splinters, stick with smooth, stable woods (cedar, redwood, or even well-sanded PT) or go with manufactured decking.
Build Your Dream Deck with MGS Contracting Services, VA
Your backyard deck isn’t just an appendage to your house – it’s the stage for countless family memories, summer barbecues, and relaxing evenings under the Virginia stars. Whether you’re drawn to the rustic charm of cedar, the rich luxury of Ipe, or the tried-and-true reliability of pressure-treated pine, choosing the right wood is the foundation of a great deck. Here at MGS Contracting Services, we specialize in bringing those choices to life with quality craftsmanship tailored to Virginia’s climate and your family’s needs. We’ve built beautiful decks across Central Virginia – from Richmond to Fairfax – and our experience with these materials means we can guide you through the pros, cons, and creative possibilities.
Why choose MGS? We pride ourselves on expertise in wood deck construction that ensures safety, longevity, and beauty as top priorities. Our team (led by experts like Chris Chapman) knows how each type of wood behaves. We’ll make sure your cedar deck is properly spaced and sealed so it stays splinter-free and gorgeous. We’ll handle that heavy Ipe with care, using the right tools and stainless fasteners so your investment lasts a lifetime. If you opt for pressure-treated, we’ll select the best boards and give you tips on maintenance to maximize its lifespan. Every deck we build is customized to the homeowner’s lifestyle – maybe you need built-in benches for extra seating, a smooth railing that’s little-kid friendly, or a pattern that mixes wood types for a unique look (yes, we can combine materials artfully!). We don’t do one-size-fits-all; we do what fits your home and habits.
Imagine stepping onto a deck that’s solid underfoot, with the perfect wood tone complementing your home’s style, knowing that it was built right – that’s the peace of mind we aim to deliver. Our customers often tell us how much more they use their outdoor space once we’ve transformed it. We want you to feel that your deck is an extension of your home, built for fun, built for relaxation, and built to last.
Ready to make it happen? We invite you to get a personalized consultation with our team. We’ll discuss your ideas, show you samples of woods (so you can see and feel the difference between, say, cedar and composite or pine and Ipe), and we’ll explain in plain language what maintenance each option involves. Our goal is to help you make an informed decision that you’ll be happy with not just on day one, but years down the line.
Your Virginia home deserves the best – a deck that is safe, strong, and stunning. Whether you prioritize an eco-friendly natural look, a budget-friendly build, or a deck that will wow the neighbors, we’re here to bring it to life. Let’s build your dream deck together. Contact MGS Contracting Services, VA today, and let’s lay the foundation (literally!) for countless good times ahead. Your perfect backyard retreat is closer than you think. Here’s to creating that ideal outdoor space for your family – one beautiful deck board at a time!